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Hash, Inc. - Animation:Master

The Lost World: TAR of Zandoria


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Oh no! Will, you can't enter! The rest of us need a chance ;) I was hoping that all of your threatenings to enter were just jokes to keep us on our toes!

 

The character already looks great. Is this a resculpt of the old one? What kind of environment are planning on putting him in?

 

I'm looking forward to watching your progress

 

Lee

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LOL A strategically placed white spot! But you missed some bits. ;) This should be fun to watch progress. I thought you might do that character that was fishing with fairies. Hopefully you'll do that in the future.

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I've been doodling around trying to decide on how I want the Jowls to look and work, since I was unhappy with my earlier version...

A real hippo has a bit of a chin (left side of sketch), but giving less of a lower jaw--almost all lip, seems a little "cuter" (inked version). I will keep these ideas in my head tonight as I remodel that lower jaw area...

tar5_7_07.jpg

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I've made it past copy/flip/attach...Now I will start adding the rest of his equipment. I was really pleased with the mouth this time, especially the insides (I had better references this time around)--and I even improved my technique stitching in the teeth :)

WIP5_10_07.jpg

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Jody, it was actually really easy--I'll see if I can post a brief tutorial. I remember taking forever to model the Balrogs teeth--once you try this, you'll never go back.

 

 

Teeth Stitching Tutorial

 

Start with the mesh of the jaw or gums. In this case I decided to model what could be a crocodile or dragon's lower jaw.

step1.jpg

Using the ADD tool, stitch a circle into the gum. This will become the base of a tooth.

step2.jpg

Select the splines in each circle and set the MAGNITUDE to 167%. For these teeth I have added a second ring, which will become the tooth cross-section later.

step3.jpg

Where the mesh doesn't have enough resolution for the number of teeth you want, stitch in more. These dangling splines will be HOOKS.

step4.jpg

After you get your teeth drawn in, you notice that the adjacent teeth have 6point areas between them. Fix this by stitching a spline between them. leave the end dangling, then HOOK it into the next patch.

step5.jpg

Here you see all of the teeth stitched in, but a lot of 5point patches to make!!!

step6.jpg

It's really not too bad...just work your way down the line. :) Turn on SHOW NORMALS (SHIFT+1) to make it easy to see which way the surface is pointing. If the direction is wrong, hit (F) to FLIP it.

step7.jpg

Select the spline where it runs into the base of each tooth and PEAK it (P). This will help create a distinct gumline where the tooth emerges.

step8.jpg

Select the center of the tooth and TRANSLATE it up. Then select the cross-section spline and move it up also. You may need to switch views as you go. Holding down (2) constrains movement to the Y-axis (up and down).

step9.jpg

Continue down the line and shape the rest of the teeth.

step10.jpg

COPY/FLIP/ATTACH to get the second half of your model. Easy! :)

step11.jpg

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The model looks cool.

 

I took your render and pushed the saturation to the max to show the colors that are in the photo vs the colors that are on Tar. To match the same light as in the photo, see the direct lit sand which is yellow-orange and the shadowed sand which is blue, you need to set the AO color to blue and the suncolor to yellow.

TarSunlight.jpg

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The model looks cool.

 

I took your render and pushed the saturation to the max to show the colors that are in the photo vs the colors that are on Tar. To match the same light as in the photo, see the direct lit sand which is yellow-orange and the shadowed sand which is blue, you need to set the AO color to blue and the suncolor to yellow.

 

Yves, if you set the Global color to anything other than WHITE (I originally was using Image based lighting), then the front projection target (ground) picks up that color and doesn't match the rotoscope. So I'm aware that the lighting isn't correct--if I were going to composite an animation in Aftereffects, I'd light it to match the scene and render Tar and his shadow separately, then composite with the background plate....since I'm still just working on the model, it didn't seem to be important to do all that extra work.

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  • 2 weeks later...

saw a cool tutorial in 3DWorld of terrain, which gave me an idea......

 

After creating the terrain with the terrain wizard, I ran Marcel Bricman's "PuZh" plug-in. The plug-in pushes the CPs a set distance along their surface normals, which makes the weathered gullies really look good--it makes the gullies seem to cut into the rock more naturally and swells the hills a bit. [it's kind of funny, because the tutorial I read was done in Max--it took 2 pages of step by steps! This was done with 2 clicks!]

WIP5_30_07.jpg

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