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agep

Hash Fellow
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Everything posted by agep

  1. Hi guys! I saw that my name was mentioned and wanted to give you an update. Thanks for mentioning me by the way I currently work for a ship simulator company in Norway which requires me to use different 3d software than A:M. At the company I make different 3d assets used in the simulator ranging from big ships to smaller containers and cargo. At home I do play around in Unity and use A:M sometimes for smaller projects. I became a father for the second time four months ago, and since my first born is still a toddler, my amount of spare time is very limited I do visit the A:M forum almost daily Best regards Stian
  2. Is it really necessary to hollow out the model? My makerbot prints the model with a honeycomb pattern in the inside, so no need to hollow it out. I can define the wall thickness and amount of honeycomb. The honeycomb patter makes the print very strong yet saves a lot of build material
  3. Also, A LL image contains a lot more information, since a Light Probe image compresses the information along the the edges
  4. Latitude-Longitude will do the same job as a Light Probe. And since the HDRI file already is Latitude-Longitude there is no need for two separate files. That is why I never generated Light Probes. I think you was able to convert a LL into a Light-Probe with the free version of http://www.hdrshop.com/, but it doesn't look like it is available anymore
  5. Right Click the file and select Open With -> Choose default program?
  6. I have two 27" monitors at 2560 x 1440. One for 3D Modelling and one where I have reference images and such. Can't go back to any smaller setup
  7. Here is a sample of some bolts and nuts I have printed at 100 Microns. In theory it is possible to print your example, but it would probably require a few attempts and some tweaking
  8. I guess you need a filter/plugin that does "edge padding" or a "dilation filter". I dont know what filter you are referring to, but hopefully you are able to use the search terms
  9. I love my Logitech G700. It is wireless (and wired when charging), has a lot of extra buttons which I have assigned to various shortcuts and is very ergonomical. The only drawback is that it runs out of battery pretty fast, but then you just have to attach the charging cable, which makes it an wired mouse while charging
  10. A little late, but Happy birthday my friend!
  11. Just got my Replicator 2 earlier this week. It sure does kick the crap out of my old Thing-O-Matic. Here is a print of the alligator head I made a few years ago. The print is about 7cm long from the back of the head to the tip of its nose. I have uploaded the model to Thingiverse if someone else wants to print it
  12. I have this IKEA lamp on my desk, which should be fairly easy to make with just extruding, scaling, moving and rotating a circle?
  13. It has to be manually modelled, atleast on my Makerbot. Not sure how it works with the newest Makerbot which also features new software. In this thread you can see how I solved the support and overhang on a bracket I made: http://www.hash.com/forums/index.php?showt...amp;hl=makerbot
  14. They don't have any of the details (eg file formats)- but there was mention of an IRIS printer type technology. Maybe they are developing a 2 step process? 1st carve model from paper block, 2nd 3D spray/nozzle airbrush like thing in an enclosed booth type thing using texture/color data from model (obj?) (wrong - see video linked to below) EDIT:[/b] OOOOoooo... I am interested for sure. The prints actually looks very nice in this video. Also, since they are built within a stack of paper it eliminates the need for support structure, which is a challenge with the makerbot
  15. Thanks for the tip. I went ahead and ordered the magazine
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