Fuchur

you can. that is the 299 dollar version. see you *fuchur*

sounds like a corrupt installation or problems with the rights of the directory you have A:M installed in to me. try to reinstall. that may help. see you *fuchur*

Hi Robert, when using FDM-3d-Printer this is called an infill. You can define how much infill you want (it is a percentage value... in this case I think it is 10 or 5%... not sure right now). Yes it is a kind of support-structure IN the object. Makerware creates those by its own in closed shapes / areas. This is called "Cat-Infill" (just because the shape is a cat ). Makerware gives you several of them. Most comonly it is a hexagonal shape (like bees do in their hives). There is although a shark-infill and one more (can't remember at the moment and I am currently printing... like that I can not have a look). You can even create own shapes, but the structure itself will be created by the slicer / the software when it proccesses the shape. You do not have to worry much about that... You just tell the software, how much infill you want and that's it. Why I used that shape? I just wanted to test it out . Really no reason other than "hey, there is a button... lets try that one..." . The good thing about it: With those infills the stability is very high but you need MUCH less material to create your objects. (they are lighter and of course it just costs less). Other 3d printing systems (like Stereolithography) do not use those infills, as far as I know. It is quite similar to bird bones or aircraft wings... they are very light but can take a good punch, since the support that is their is really enough. It would not improve the stability very much if you filled the other areas too. (yes, a fully filled object is less breakable, but it is really not worth the extra weight and it highly depends on the force direction and stuff like that. For this object I used a very low infill, since it just does not have to withstand anything other than gravity) but would increase the weight significantly. See you *Fuchur*

Hi, I have just a few minutes ago completed a new construction I created in A:M, brought over to Makerware and printed it out. It worked very well . It is a door traffic light. This is how it looks in A:M and in Makerbot / Makerware: And here you can read more about how it turned out and what it does with more images: http://www.patchwork3d.de/blog-5-en/complex-3d-print-door-traffic-light-677 See you *Fuchur*

Just to let you know: I will enter, but the image is already ready to be shown, so a work in progress is not possible from my side. See you *Fuchur*

Get something like this: http://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B006I3404A?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00 Extremly cheap and one of those will take years to be used all up. I can use one layer of this on my printer for at least 20 prints or more (there is no real rule when to change other than something went wrong and you have a hole in it). The good thing about it: It is a little rough too (not like sandpaper... just a little paper-structure on it) and that will make it even easier to get something printed on it off but it still keeps the printed parts very firm on it. (I just say it is perfect) And since it is meant to be removed without any leftovers it really is perfect. And yes, 80°C is perfect. even though the printed prints with 200-250 °C when the plastic hits the surface, that temperature is long gone and you are ready to go. I never had any kind of termic indication (like brown areas or stuff) on it. I would not go below that, since what really is important is the glue on the other side, but as I said: There never will be that much heat on the other side neighter. (BUT be aware that this is only good for PLA-prints. If you want to print ABS, you need a heated build-plate and that will behave differently. There I recommend Cabton-Tape. It is much more trouble to put on the built-plate and will need to be changed more often, but it will be better for letting the heat pass through, which is what you will need for ABS. But since you are having trouble to print anyway, I would not recommend to try ABS for now. It is much harder to print with and will result in warping and stuff like that, which PLA will not do at all (or at least very little...) See you *Fuchur* PS: If you are starting to print, print something simple first... do not try to print a full action figure or stuff like that... that is hard to do and needs understanding before you get it right. Start with simple things!

didnt you use tape or glue stick on your built-plate? i am always using tape on my (the one used by people painting walls to protect certain areas where no paint should go). some people prefer the glue stick but I am no fan of that. cant you rotate your built plate and use it the other way round? 3d printing needs some practice and tries and you will run into trouble but that is part of the fun with it. it will be a very pleasant feeling inside if you get a problem solved, even more if you fought it against all odds . if you have trouble ask. in the end all the printers face similar problems and maybe me or someone else found a solution before you even run into the problem. see you *fuchur*

start with a very simple rig... i had problems with complex ones before. see you *fuchur*

that is very likely no freeze. give him time and it should work (looks like a freeze but in reallity it is still calculating and exporting/importing). just be patient there. see you *fuchur*

Hi Steff. Radiosity is not always necessaryat all to create great looking renderings. what you might want to check out is ambient occlusion, screenspace ambient occlusion and image based lightening. these render much faster and can produce very well looking images too. see you *Fuchur* PS: hey jason congratulation on your new product and all the best for you and your family . good looking product and great video with nice looking rendering

No biggy at all . Glad I could help . see you *Fuchur*

I approved a couple of trial requests. Thanks for letting me know, seems like Jason did not find the time to approve them lately. You should receive an email with further instructions shortly . See you *Fuchur*

Normally not. I am on the road right know but will check if there are unanswered trial requests in a couple of minutes. see you *fuchur*

thanks and well done See you *Fuchur*

i do not think he is talking about keys but actual two smartskin / relationships, right? i think that is not meant to be used in that way. in general you can put anything you want to animate in one sm. i am not sure what will happen if you really use two of them. see you *fuchur*

I am not quite sure what this feature is for, but yes, Rodney is right... Shift + 7 and it will toogle. Anyone has a use case for that? See you *Fuchur*

Yes you can export with bones and animation. The way to do that is: 1.) Export a model (this will include the model-geometry, the decals/textures and the bone-structure/rig of the model and put that into a *.x-file 2.) In A:M you can now attach action-files (animations) to the x-file. For that go to a action which uses the model you exported before and go there to "Plugin > Export > A:Mtex DirectX Animation". 3.) A:M will ask for a file. Here you select the *.x-file exported before. 4.) Now the dialog opens which asks you if you want to attach the animation to the current x-file or create a new one and a few other things. This is especially useful for game engine and 3d engine exports. After pressing ok, the directx-file will be altered (or copied and saved, depending on your settings in the dialog) and contain the action. Like that you can add as many actions to one file as you want. See you *Fuchur* PS: You can have a look at this video tutorial for more information. Be aware, that the directx-export-plugin is included with current releases of A:M so you can just skipp the first 2 minutes. The next 3:30 Minutes are the most interesting for you then.

Hi Steff, very nice to hear that you like it . Do you mean you are having trouble attaching CPs to bones or when modelling attaching one spline to another? Where did you run into trouble? (would be very helpful if you could provide the time of the video where you had problems). http://www.hash.com/video-tutorials-23-en > Exercise 9: Flower-Power Tutorial. See you *Fuchur*

As he said... I am not connected legally to Hash Inc. I am not employed by Hash. I am just trying to help and the help I can offer is very limited. Hash provides an email-address and a contact form (which did not work at the moment... must be some problem with the last server update... when I last checked, it did work. I corrected that problem and it should work again. Sorry for the trouble there. That was really unhelpful and I understand, that that is not helping to get things fixed or lowering the frustation level... thanks for letting us know about that problem anyway and as I said, it should work now). You still could have tried to send an email to this address, which is available on the support-page of the website too: support@hash.com Is there a reason why you are writing a little unpolitly here? Any deadline or stuff like that? What I read from the post is, that you had a problem with your hardware... Hash will help you in that case, but A:M was not the reason your computer died (right?) and like that it is not Hash who should be blamed here at all. As it is written all over the place (in the shop, on the website, in several forum posts) the subscription is bound to one computer. Like that the subscription does not work with another computer. No one has told you, that you can easily exchange the licence with another computer anywhere, or am I wrong? Nevertheless Hash will help you to transfer the licence to another computer if your request is valid, but I did not read that Hash claims to have 24/7 support anywhere. Not even for money. I am sure that after the weekend Hash will help you as soon as they can. It is unfortunately the case, that the people at Hash only work on working days. There is nothing I can do to change that and it is their right to do it that way, since they do not claim anything else anywhere. See you *Fuchur*

...not that we are very far from Illustrator's way of doing that . you are talking about patchfinder right? Anyway and despite what Martin way back said... I find that approach very fastinating and like what you have done very much. please keep us informed at what you are doing and how it turns out. I myself use A:M for all my modelling for 3d printing and like it very much too. I'd say that kind of stuff surely deserves a place on the website if you have a prototype and an image of that . Well done! See you *Fuchur*

What he is talking about is this option, which is better suited for 3d printing in most cases, since you want precisely what you have modelled there. I don't see what a SDS preview would help. Could you explain why you'd like that? It would be harder to control in these cases while modelling, because you always would have to guess how the SDS smoothing would behave (one of the things I always saw as a bad thing with SDS... yes it can be previewed quite nice, but still you are always working on a control cage instead the real deal there... See you *Fuchur*

There is no direct path from A:M to FBX... there only is the one from A:M to X to FBX using Unwrap3d. The Unity-Workflow will create a FBX-file... http://www.patchwork3d.de/am-to-unity3d-64-en See you *Fuchur*

I'll have a look... they should be available somewhere on my server, but I can not have a look at that before this evening. See you *Fuchur*

You are using many groups there... are you sure you are not overwritting some patches with another group for instance? (it makes a difference, which order the groups have then...) See you *Fuchur*

Yes there has been one or two... but in that many years that is amazing enough... we dont know if they can keep that up but if ut should not be a bigger problem. see u *Fuchur*