Fuchur

- Do you use a light in your scene which casts shadows? - Did you activate the "Buffers > Light Buffersr" in the Render-To-File-Settings? I think there is a Shadow-Entry too, but I am not sure if you have to activate that one... I think it is another function and Light-Buffers should do the trick... just ry it . See you *Fuchur*

Hi Holly, seems like there is something missing, right? See you *Fuchur*

I am not sure why, but it works for me... (18m) Try this one. Does it work for you? See you *Fuchur* PS: For simulation I used "Bake Dynamic Systems". mini_dynamic_constriant.prj

Yes very possible. The problem is, that without Average Normals turned on, it will not use the normal weights. > use Show Advanced Properties. > Turn Average Normals to On. > Insert a percantage value between 0 - 100% and see what suites you best. See you *Fuchur*

try setting the property triangle to on in the options rodney. for me it looks like what david is showing in his screens and I am using property triangles too. and i am using show advanced properties too. maybe that is the one. see you *fuchur*

I am not totally sure how this behaves if you use a toon renderer, but since you use normal shading it should work. Be sure you are using the average normal + normal weights-properties on the first group of patches. (what will not work is to create an empty group of all things below everything else and overwrittiing the properties there) If it is still not working, try to create a simple case (something like a lath-object) and try it out. You should even see it in the real time view. See you *Fuchur*

Porcelain is no longer available or is at least much more work than the Average-Normals-Surface-Attribute. You can find it in any surface property (that means it is available for groups, whole models, materials, etc.). It is by default set to "OFF". Set it to "ON". If you do that, you will see a new property called "Normal Weight". You can test that property out. 50% seems to be a good value, but sometime 100% or something inbetween is helpful too. (depending on what you want to achieve) See you *Fuchur*

As far as I know that should work yes. But ask Jason about that again. See you *Fuchur*

Hi Byran. Yes that looks like a bad topology you've got there. One of the most important things: Do not try to cross more than 2 splines at one point. Use 5-pointers or hooks to get around these areas. If you do not know what that is or how to use them, have a look at these video-tutorials. They should answer your questions: - http://www.patchwork3d.de/basics-of-patch-modelling-80-en > The basics explained - https://www.hash.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=46946 > How to create a hand and a very basic foot. (This is about how it could be done and will tell you several possibilities) See you *Fuchur*

Hi Bryan and welcome to the A:M forums It stops working. You can resubscribe anytime you want and it will work again but as long as you do not have a running subscription, it will not start. The non-expiring version is 299 Dollars and will get updates of one major version (like v18). After that you can use v18 as long as you want, but you will not get any updates from v19. See you *Fuchur*

No but you can rotate the view of the model under it. Press and hold CTRL and use the turn-tool with the mouse.. See you *Fuchur*

A:M runs fine on Windows 8.1 here. (my laptop runs 8.1) I assume it works with Windows 10 too, but I have not tested that. But Windows is very long backward compatible in general. (much longer than for instance MacOS) Like that I am not really afraid this will be a problem. See you *Fuchur*

that is interesting. a drainage because it is air tight. that is something to think about too when buying a printer. in general a fdm printed part is not even water tight. (close too but not totally). like that if you want to print a mug you need to work on it afterwards (for instance melt the surface slightly with acetone before putting water in it) see you *fuchur*

isnt there mirror constraints or something like that that does that? see you *fuchur*

you can. that is the 299 dollar version. see you *fuchur*

sounds like a corrupt installation or problems with the rights of the directory you have A:M installed in to me. try to reinstall. that may help. see you *fuchur*

Hi Robert, when using FDM-3d-Printer this is called an infill. You can define how much infill you want (it is a percentage value... in this case I think it is 10 or 5%... not sure right now). Yes it is a kind of support-structure IN the object. Makerware creates those by its own in closed shapes / areas. This is called "Cat-Infill" (just because the shape is a cat ). Makerware gives you several of them. Most comonly it is a hexagonal shape (like bees do in their hives). There is although a shark-infill and one more (can't remember at the moment and I am currently printing... like that I can not have a look). You can even create own shapes, but the structure itself will be created by the slicer / the software when it proccesses the shape. You do not have to worry much about that... You just tell the software, how much infill you want and that's it. Why I used that shape? I just wanted to test it out . Really no reason other than "hey, there is a button... lets try that one..." . The good thing about it: With those infills the stability is very high but you need MUCH less material to create your objects. (they are lighter and of course it just costs less). Other 3d printing systems (like Stereolithography) do not use those infills, as far as I know. It is quite similar to bird bones or aircraft wings... they are very light but can take a good punch, since the support that is their is really enough. It would not improve the stability very much if you filled the other areas too. (yes, a fully filled object is less breakable, but it is really not worth the extra weight and it highly depends on the force direction and stuff like that. For this object I used a very low infill, since it just does not have to withstand anything other than gravity) but would increase the weight significantly. See you *Fuchur*

Hi, I have just a few minutes ago completed a new construction I created in A:M, brought over to Makerware and printed it out. It worked very well . It is a door traffic light. This is how it looks in A:M and in Makerbot / Makerware: And here you can read more about how it turned out and what it does with more images: http://www.patchwork3d.de/blog-5-en/complex-3d-print-door-traffic-light-677 See you *Fuchur*

Just to let you know: I will enter, but the image is already ready to be shown, so a work in progress is not possible from my side. See you *Fuchur*

Get something like this: http://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B006I3404A?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00 Extremly cheap and one of those will take years to be used all up. I can use one layer of this on my printer for at least 20 prints or more (there is no real rule when to change other than something went wrong and you have a hole in it). The good thing about it: It is a little rough too (not like sandpaper... just a little paper-structure on it) and that will make it even easier to get something printed on it off but it still keeps the printed parts very firm on it. (I just say it is perfect) And since it is meant to be removed without any leftovers it really is perfect. And yes, 80°C is perfect. even though the printed prints with 200-250 °C when the plastic hits the surface, that temperature is long gone and you are ready to go. I never had any kind of termic indication (like brown areas or stuff) on it. I would not go below that, since what really is important is the glue on the other side, but as I said: There never will be that much heat on the other side neighter. (BUT be aware that this is only good for PLA-prints. If you want to print ABS, you need a heated build-plate and that will behave differently. There I recommend Cabton-Tape. It is much more trouble to put on the built-plate and will need to be changed more often, but it will be better for letting the heat pass through, which is what you will need for ABS. But since you are having trouble to print anyway, I would not recommend to try ABS for now. It is much harder to print with and will result in warping and stuff like that, which PLA will not do at all (or at least very little...) See you *Fuchur* PS: If you are starting to print, print something simple first... do not try to print a full action figure or stuff like that... that is hard to do and needs understanding before you get it right. Start with simple things!

didnt you use tape or glue stick on your built-plate? i am always using tape on my (the one used by people painting walls to protect certain areas where no paint should go). some people prefer the glue stick but I am no fan of that. cant you rotate your built plate and use it the other way round? 3d printing needs some practice and tries and you will run into trouble but that is part of the fun with it. it will be a very pleasant feeling inside if you get a problem solved, even more if you fought it against all odds . if you have trouble ask. in the end all the printers face similar problems and maybe me or someone else found a solution before you even run into the problem. see you *fuchur*

start with a very simple rig... i had problems with complex ones before. see you *fuchur*

that is very likely no freeze. give him time and it should work (looks like a freeze but in reallity it is still calculating and exporting/importing). just be patient there. see you *fuchur*

Hi Steff. Radiosity is not always necessaryat all to create great looking renderings. what you might want to check out is ambient occlusion, screenspace ambient occlusion and image based lightening. these render much faster and can produce very well looking images too. see you *Fuchur* PS: hey jason congratulation on your new product and all the best for you and your family . good looking product and great video with nice looking rendering

No biggy at all . Glad I could help . see you *Fuchur*