robcat2075

As i have followed this scene over the years I've noticed there seemed to be a lot of YouTube videos devoted to getting a 3D printer to work right.

Whoops! Don't flex these resin prints. They don't flex!

At the end of Live Answer Time today we watched "Egg Cited" Spoiler: it's about eggs!

You installed over a previous installation of the same version? If so, remove the master0.lic file from the program folder.

Your activation code is in the form of XXXX-XXXX-XXXX-XXXX?

Here is WIP on the "Thom the Thinker" for "Finish the Unfinished" Early version: Redo after more study of the original: Thom is changed to a sculptor: Splined: Test print:

Thanks! Two hours and 4 minutes.

See more 3D printing in my medal thread... https://forums.hash.com/topic/52666-prehistoric-medal-wip/#findComment-435442

When i started designing medals 10 years ago, and Ken Citron was doing all the printing, he had to take the shapes into a polygon editor and do a boolean merge to create one continuous surface. Today, in the "Chitubox" software I am using now, I can export an A:M model of intersecting shapes and the slicer intelligently regards them as merged. I presume that is true of most other software today.

I'm learning to 3D print now. Here is the front face of the medal fresh out of the resin printer. It is printed at an angle to reduce layer lines. Now dried and cured. Printing supports not removed yet. Some will snap off, others have to be snipped off. Medal face. I'm trying to judge if anything needs to be made more prominent to survive the casting process. All of the detail has to fit in the 1mm between the floor and the rim of the "dish". CU of Thom and his paint brush. Layer lines are just barely apparent. They are more like random noise.

Hi Tom, There has to be continuous support from the "build plate" to any object that is not sitting on the build plate. Fortunately "slicer" programs can automate the placement of those supports. The supports are snapped off when the print is done. In practice the build plate is above the resin vat and lifted as layers are added the models can be rotated to manage where the supports are placed. A problem with a sphere or cube (for resin printing) is that they are solid enclosed shapes; uncurable resin will be trapped inside if no holes are added for it to drain out. I've read that the ideal resin surface should be 5mm or less.

Maybe. But the last thing I need is more chemicals for this.

Layer lines can be observed on shallow slopes. These are 0.1mm layers. I think they can be made smaller in exchange for longer printing time. The 3D print is pretty good but consider that the penny has finer details than this 3D print could show.

Does the background need to be transparent? Can it be a patch that is background-colored? GIF only supports all-or-nothing transparency so a partial transparency effect like the lens flare, that partially colors whatever it overlaps, is not possible in GIF.

We really need real video of a real person doing these things. Something that can be paused and studied