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Hash, Inc. - Animation:Master

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  1. I got a 3D resin printer. My first print is the teapot from the Three Teapots Benchmark As it is printed on the build plate. This took one hour to print. At this scale the walls are paper thin. After curing and removing the supports:
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  2. I'm learning to 3D print now. Here is the front face of the medal fresh out of the resin printer. It is printed at an angle to reduce layer lines. Now dried and cured. Printing supports not removed yet. Some will snap off, others have to be snipped off. Medal face. I'm trying to judge if anything needs to be made more prominent to survive the casting process. All of the detail has to fit in the 1mm between the floor and the rim of the "dish". CU of Thom and his paint brush. Layer lines are just barely apparent. They are more like random noise.
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  3. Yes it can be done. Depends on the material which once work. Some are pretty toxic so, but it depends. But you can easily go smaller than 0.1mm (100 microns) with a resin printer... If you go with 10-50 microns (depends on the printer if you can) you will likely do no longer see the rings with bare eyes. Still they will be there especially with round shapes you print in the "wrong" direction / rotation. (sometimes you can not do it differently) These are some of mine with my resin printer where you can see it on the sphere stuff too: https://www.patchwork3d.de/blog-5-en/schmuck-aus-dem-dlp-drucker-elegoo-mars-1029 But the problem with resin printers is: You need more time and it is more trouble for less strong parts. If you want to do small figures, resin is great, if you need strong parts to be useable in real world scenario you want a FDM machine. Best regards *Fuchur*
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  4. works like a charm flare_test.avi
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