NancyGormezano

hee hee - this is gonna be good

Uh-oh. Sounds like Sister Mary Dracula is still rumbling around in your poor lil head .... THWAP!

Hee hee - very good David! Love the extra eyeball aimers also - The Cross eyed look is soon to become the norm (for my stuff anyway). And how about the extra stops for the FACE on/off - (now goes to 4%) - I can see myself getting into even more trouble with 3 & 4. Just keeps getting mo' bettah

very, very cute ribbons - well done. Now if you had only used sprites or newton dynamics so that the snow would gather on the furniture, and then freeze up with ice like fluids. That would totally convince me to buy from this store for sure.

Neato - I can't wait to see this thing blasting poor ol' Thom with some colorful "paint ball" fluid tests.

It seems to me that some of the characters have too much of a limitation on eye movement. And I have also noticed (I think?) that on some characters, one can get greater eye movement if you use the master target rather than the eye aimer bone. I prefer a greater range of motion, more extreme for the eyes. Not sure if your new rig addresses this. But perhaps it was how the individual model was setup? and not a function of the rig.

If the surfaces are already decaled - and you extend (stretch) the grass/ground the decal will "stretch" with the surface. If it is too stretchy looking - then you can set a repeat for the decal (under the decal container in the model) or reapply the decal.

To add a background (assuming the camera doesn't move during the shot) - right click on the camera in the chor and choose NEW, rotoscope - then select the image you want to use (either already loaded or browse for it with other). To extend the grass/sidewalk - you will have to alter the model ? - not sure I understand the question (since that was the obvious answer)

very nice stuff - could work very nicely for making fluffy wispy clouds

Turn off stride length in the action (not in the chor) then repeat should show up in the chor. Verrrry nice footprints

So what color(s) are you today?

Yes, cycle length and chor range are tied together, along with repeat in all versions. If you only want an action to occur for 100 frames in the chor, then set your action length in the chor to 100, repeat to 1, or length to 50, repeat 2, or length to 25, repeat 4, or length to 10 repeat to 10, etc. Depending on the speed you want for the walk.

Yes - you can create your action at any length - and then in the chor, after you've inserted it at the correct place, change the length of the action - essentially speed up or slow down to suit your needs. (I suspect you might not be able to have stride length set however - not sure - did not verify) EDIT - just verified - seems to work ok with stride length

For your objects that you want to be front projected & "catch the shadows" - you could turn on flat shaded and turn off cast shadows. Both the ground plane & box in this chor are front projected objects

Klieg type is still in use today with A:M. If you look under the objects folder and inspect the rim light, or fill, or key light - you will see the property type - if you pull that down - you'll see that you could change any of the lights (key, fill, rim) to any type you would like - sun, bulb, or klieg. The terms key, fill, rim are just "standard" photography terms/names for lighting setups - You could rename them to george, harry, alfredo if you wanted.

No, I meant a Rim light. Other lights I would use if I wanted it to light up the entire surrounding. But for a light with a shade, I use Rim light that way I can control which way the beam is directed and its fall-off properties. I also use the Rim as a spot light. A Klieg would be good for a candle, I think, where the light eminates in all directions? Am I right? I don't know. The default rim light that comes in the default chor is a Klieg type light - a spot light. So I think we're talking about the same thing. The other types of lights are sun (one direction, parallel rays) and bulb (all directions).

What Dhar said - except I believe he probably meant to say use a Klieg type light. However you will also probably want to give your light bulb model surface properties some ambiance, and glow maybe to show that it is on - you will have to play with the settings.

If you are using a Klieg light (and probably sun light) - you can increase the width of the light and it will sorta soften the raytraced shadows - I believe EDIT: first image is 1 inch width for klieg light, 2nd is 10 foot width

I am not sure I am understanding what you want to do: If you want to re-center the pivot of the group then select the group and hit "." twice. Then select the translate manipulator ("n") - the pivot should then be centered. You can then use the arrow keys (as well as your mouse) to translate the group. If you want to change where the pivot is for the group - ie make it NOT centered then you can also drag the pivot without dragging the group, or you can type in the coordinates for the pivot in the manipulator properties box. I found I had more luck first centering the pivot (with the double .) and then dragging the pivot, or typing in the coordinates. (ver 14c)

Perhaps at one point you extruded the 30 patched cover - and you have a double layer (ie 60 patches) for the cover. Perhaps you are seeing the second layer showing thru. Even so - whenever you have patches that don't seem to have the decal applied - you can always right click on DECALS in the PWS for the model and select "group undecaled control points" - you will then isolate the patches that still need to be stamped - and then can reapply the decal just to those patches. FYI, the face normals don't matter for decaling (for other things it definitely does matter) - you would still see the decal if it were applied, even if the face normals were wrong.

Ok - the cube came in without the decal for me too - but the decal container was there. It might be a problem with png format. I never use it. I changed the image to a jpg (in photoshop). tga should work too I then deleted the decal container - reapplied the decal (using the jpg) - saved the cube. Started a new project, brought the cube in - and the decal was there. EDIT: - I also changed the name to F1001-small.jpg rather than F1.001-small.png in case A:M was having problems with the name of the image - but I was just covering my bases without direct knowledge that this is a problem.

Are you also setting the frame number? (in the image decal container). You might also need to initially set the frame number of the sequence to 0. And check the fps for the image sequence & that it gets set correctly (under images). I notice that sometimes that doesn't stick as well. If you are going to be animating the display of the sequence of images - then you will also need to either set up a pose slider to control the frame number, or change it directly in the chor.

I will add - try to not center your focus of interest (offset it from center) - perhaps add some other elements for balance, and to lead the eye for a more asymmetric composition.

Any particular bone? and what rig are you using? The bone might have constraints on it.

Wow. Pretty terrific. Take a lesson from the consumable ink jet market. Make the software almost free - and sell the special magic-one-time-use green face dots for $20 bucks a dot. Kidding !!! (I need a video camera)