itsjustme Posted August 6, 2011 Author Posted August 6, 2011 Nice now you need the glass coffee pot..make a spare in case the first one drops It's supposed to be a "coffee-on-demand" or single cup coffee maker, so there wouldn't be a pot. It's not a direct copy of any particular model...maybe that's where I went wrong. I was trying for something that was a cross between something like this and this...more for a larger metal glass instead of a coffee cup (I figured it would give me less problems than reflections on the glass pot and liquid sloshing inside would) and able to dispense more than a single serving without reloading. Like the microwave, I was also trying to avoid putting a clock or digital display on it...in an attempt to prevent possible future continuity problems. I thought it worked for that, but maybe not...I'll do some thinking and see if I can figure out something that might help it. Thanks, John. I appreciate the encouragement, guys. Here are the electric sockets I made for this project...one with a circuit breaker and one without. When did people start putting the ground on top? I'm no expert, so I could be completely wrong, but I don't think it's wrong to have the ground on top...I think it's just preference. I was going by the outlets in my kitchen, which have the ground on top and the writing on the "Test" and "Reset" buttons were right-side up when oriented like that. The sockets on the home improvement site I was checking had them both ways...here. However, most of the sockets in my house have the ground on the bottom, so, I did a quick survey of a few sockets tonight (at work and a store on the way home) and found them installed both ways (when they weren't turned sideways). Most of what I found had the ground on the bottom, but, I found several with the ground on top as well. Then, I found some images here and here, but I think the most telling is the image here ("Reset" and "Test" are written on the buttons to support either orientation). That's what I found while trying to figure out if I goofed. It could easily be turned the other direction...I'm thinking I'll texture the "Reset" and "Test" buttons for either orientation. Thanks, Robert. Quote
Hash Fellow robcat2075 Posted August 6, 2011 Hash Fellow Posted August 6, 2011 Yeah, ground-on-top seems to be common today. I've heard some urban rumor style explanations of why it's "safer", but I really think the outlet should make a face. I'm old-fashioned that way. Quote
MJL Posted August 6, 2011 Posted August 6, 2011 You will notice that the ground prong is slightly longer than the two power prongs. That is so that, with the ground on the bottom, if the plug were to "fall out", or come to be inadvertently pulled out somehow, the two power plugs disconnect before the ground plug does, as a safety feature. Incredible modeling BTW Quote
itsjustme Posted August 9, 2011 Author Posted August 9, 2011 Here's a try at an adjustment to the coffee maker...it's a little taller and a little thinner with some travel mugs around it. Quote
jakerupert Posted August 9, 2011 Posted August 9, 2011 Hi David, very nice models. Arg, I forgot somehow, how to get this nice claylook. Could you please help me, get on track again? Quote
itsjustme Posted August 9, 2011 Author Posted August 9, 2011 Arg, I forgot somehow, how to get this nice claylook. Could you please help me, get on track again? It's just an AO render...in the "Properties" of the Choreography, set the "Global Ambiance Type" to "Ambiance Color" (255, 255, 255), "Ambiance Intensity" to "80%", "Ambiance Occlusion" to "80%", the Camera background color is set to white and in the Render Options, turn "Multipass" to "On" (16 pass), "Ambiance Occlusion" to "On" and "Occlusion Sampling" to "70%" (you can set it lower for faster renders with a little more noise). Hope that helps, Jost. Quote
jakerupert Posted August 9, 2011 Posted August 9, 2011 Hm, I have just the same seting like you, but still mine looks far too bright and washed out? Solved it!!! Quote
itsjustme Posted August 27, 2011 Author Posted August 27, 2011 It's been a while since I needed to post a "stay alive" post, but, I haven't updated this area in a few weeks. I followed my nose into adding two rig updates to the Squetch Rig and it's taking me longer than expected. One of them is finished, but the second one looks like it will take a few more days (if I can get it to work correctly at all)...it's being stubborn. There is a third possible addition that I'm thinking probably won't work, but I'm going to test it...just in case. Once I get the updates installed, I'll freeze the features in the rig (but fix any issues that are found) and put the installation tutorials in my work rotation. Quote
mouseman Posted August 27, 2011 Posted August 27, 2011 Arg, I forgot somehow, how to get this nice claylook. Could you please help me, get on track again? It's just an AO render...in the "Properties" of the Choreography, set the "Global Ambiance Type" to "Ambiance Color" (255, 255, 255), "Ambiance Intensity" to "80%", "Ambiance Occlusion" to "80%", the Camera background color is set to white and in the Render Options, turn "Multipass" to "On" (16 pass), "Ambiance Occlusion" to "On" and "Occlusion Sampling" to "70%" (you can set it lower for faster renders with a little more noise). Wikified! Quote
itsjustme Posted August 28, 2011 Author Posted August 28, 2011 Arg, I forgot somehow, how to get this nice claylook. Could you please help me, get on track again? It's just an AO render...in the "Properties" of the Choreography, set the "Global Ambiance Type" to "Ambiance Color" (255, 255, 255), "Ambiance Intensity" to "80%", "Ambiance Occlusion" to "80%", the Camera background color is set to white and in the Render Options, turn "Multipass" to "On" (16 pass), "Ambiance Occlusion" to "On" and "Occlusion Sampling" to "70%" (you can set it lower for faster renders with a little more noise). Wikified! I added the image of the coffee maker as an example on the Wiki, you can change it out with something else if you'd like, Chris. I just felt that it would give the Wiki user something that shows what the setting described would look like when rendered. Quote
mouseman Posted September 2, 2011 Posted September 2, 2011 I added the image of the coffee maker as an example on the Wiki, you can change it out with something else if you'd like, Chris. I just felt that it would give the Wiki user something that shows what the setting described would look like when rendered. Yes, that helps! I tried the settings on a quickie chor with my bus. It seems this technique requires no existing textures on your model, right? Quote
itsjustme Posted September 2, 2011 Author Posted September 2, 2011 I tried the settings on a quickie chor with my bus. It seems this technique requires no existing textures on your model, right? You are correct, Chris. ------------------- EDIT ------------------- Ooops, I think my response is incorrect. See this post. Quote
mouseman Posted September 3, 2011 Posted September 3, 2011 I tried the settings on a quickie chor with my bus. It seems this technique requires no existing textures on your model, right? You are correct, Chris. I finally remembered an old post on this where Nancy talked about the same method but adding Image Based Lighting. It works on models that are textured. After playing with it for an hour figuring out how to get it to work again (including getting that old project and going over it about 12 times), I finally got it to work again in a new project, and I updated the wiki page. (The part with the word "IMPORTANT" is what I kept doing wrong when trying to reproduce it.) That was with passes=4, AO sampling=20%. Here is with passes=16, AO Sampling = 70%. Quote
itsjustme Posted September 3, 2011 Author Posted September 3, 2011 I tried the settings on a quickie chor with my bus. It seems this technique requires no existing textures on your model, right? You are correct, Chris. I finally remembered an old post on this where Nancy talked about the same method but adding Image Based Lighting. It works on models that are textured. After playing with it for an hour figuring out how to get it to work again (including getting that old project and going over it about 12 times), I finally got it to work again in a new project, and I updated the wiki page. (The part with the word "IMPORTANT" is what I kept doing wrong when trying to reproduce it.) That was with passes=4, AO sampling=20%. Here is with passes=16, AO Sampling = 70%. My initial response was at least partially incorrect, Chris. I just realized that I have used the purely AO render with some texturing applied. The images of the door and frame in this post uses some bump and diffuse maps. ---------------------- EDIT ---------------------- That is also true of the bolts in this post. The signs in the images in this post are an actual colored decal as well. So, I guess my response was incorrect. I should engage my brain when responding, I guess (rather than give a knee-jerk response). Sorry for my mistake. Quote
NancyGormezano Posted September 3, 2011 Posted September 3, 2011 (edited) I finally remembered an old post on this where Nancy talked about the same method but adding Image Based Lighting. It works on models that are textured. You are confusing front projection and image based lighting. They are separate things. What you have described in the wiki is NOT image based lighting. What you have described is "front projection of the camera rotoscope" - ie. using the camera rotoscope projected on those models that you wish to appear white (overrides the textures). You could use any image. The trick for getting the "clay look" with already textured models is in using a "white image" front projected onto the model. If you want to do "Image Based Lighting", you would have to select the Global Ambiance type to be Image Based Lighting, and then select an image to use as an "environment map", like having multicolored light sources. (In all examples, there is 1 white klieg light as well, some ambient intensity and 0% Ambient occlusion) In my 1st example I'm using IBL with an abstract image to determine the ambient lighting (AI=100%, AO=0%). The sphere has surface color=white, the IBL lighting is what causes it to appear multicolored. I also have a green gradient camera rotoscope front projected on the ground plane. I also made ground flat shaded to show the shadow of the klieg light. On the 2nd image, I used an all white rotoscope front projected onto the ground, but left the IBL environment image the same as first. In 3rd image, I changed the IBL image to a green gradient image (left camera rotoscope white) In 4th image - just to be complete, I made sphere front projected (with white camera roto), changed characteristics of the rim light (intensity, shadow softness) and changed IBL environment map to white, changed ambient intensity = 50%. NOTE: There is problem when changing the environment map for IBL, when experimenting to see the different effects. I find that toggling Ambient occlusion amount (even if not using AO), is one way to get the change to register. For eg if AO=0, I change it to 1, then back to 0, and the new environment map will take effect. If you don't do this you won't see a change when rendering (even to a file) Edited September 3, 2011 by NancyGormezano Quote
itsjustme Posted September 6, 2011 Author Posted September 6, 2011 I just posted a test version of Squetchy Sam and quick demonstration video of the things I've been working on in the Squetch Rig...it's here. If anyone has time to see if it breaks, it would be very helpful. Quote
mouseman Posted September 7, 2011 Posted September 7, 2011 I finally remembered an old post on this where Nancy talked about the same method but adding Image Based Lighting. It works on models that are textured.You are confusing front projection and image based lighting. They are separate things.Thanks, Nancy. I've tried to straighten out the description in the Wiki (mostly removing incorrect references to IBL). Feel free to correct anything I put there, and/or add a section on IBL. Quote
itsjustme Posted September 29, 2011 Author Posted September 29, 2011 I just posted a biped Squetch Rig update here. Here's another rig update that includes the new "toeIK", some installation fixes and tweaks, an increased ability to resize and move around elements of the FACE interface as well as being able to unlock the FACE controls to move them off of the character while using them. Now it's possible to set up the positioning of the FACE interface to another arrangement when unlocked if you edit the "Animation_Controls/FACE Interface/unlock_FACE_interface" Pose. Included here are an updated version of Squetchy Sam and the standalone FACE rig. If you do an installation, be sure to read the included text file...there is a minor change on the positioning of the FACE controls (now it's done in the installation Action). If anyone finds a problem, let me know and I'll correct it as quickly as possible. Next, I'll do a quick exploration of an auto shoulder...we'll see if it ends up working out. Quote
itsjustme Posted October 5, 2011 Author Posted October 5, 2011 I tend to get too focused on one thing if I'm not careful...lately it's been some rig updates. So, I decided to model something small whenever I can that might be of use. Hopefully, it will keep me from getting so focused on something that I forget the other things I need to do. Yesterday, I felt like trying my hand at a small wheel. Quote
*A:M User* Shelton Posted October 5, 2011 *A:M User* Posted October 5, 2011 Really nice David Steve Quote
itsjustme Posted October 5, 2011 Author Posted October 5, 2011 I just posted an update to the Squetch Rig in this post. ----------------------------- EDIT ----------------------------- The installation rig is now updated to correct a problem with the elbow and knee fan bones when the arms and legs are modeled bent. Quote
Paul Forwood Posted October 5, 2011 Posted October 5, 2011 Great nobbley tyres, David! Did you use displacement or are the treads fully modelled? Quote
itsjustme Posted October 5, 2011 Author Posted October 5, 2011 Did you use displacement or are the treads fully modelled? They are modeled. It is quite a few patches, but that's normal for what I'm working on. Quote
itsjustme Posted October 22, 2011 Author Posted October 22, 2011 I almost had to post a "stay alive" post, but, I do have some renders I can show of a character I'm working on for the Squetch Rig installation tutorials. He's not done, so this is definitely not the final version. I rendered these out so that I could get an idea of what I need to fix. So far, I'm thinking that the torso needs to be longer and the heel needs to be bigger. I still have to model the interior of the mouth as well. I cheated a little, the hands and ears are from Sam...but I modeled him too, so I only cheated a little trying to save time. I may tweak the ears to be a little more realistic, but he's not going to be truly anatomically correct. I free-handed the body, tacked on the hands from Sam, used a mugshot to get a ballpark on some of the landmarks in the head and tacked on Sam's ears. ------------------------ EDIT ------------------------ I'll add an image of the place I stopped this evening. I lengthened the torso and arms, scaled the hands down a little and made the heel bigger (not visible in the new image). I'll pick it up again tomorrow. Quote
itsjustme Posted October 25, 2011 Author Posted October 25, 2011 Still hammering on this guy. I moved the arms toward the back, reduced the splineage in the head by quite a bit, fixed the corners of the mouth and did a bunch of overall tweaking. I still have a few splines around the ears that I'd like to eliminate or re-route, the top of the head lost a little of it's shape (I'll do some tweaking on that), I might enlarge the calves a little and then I have the interior of the mouth to model along with tweaking the ears. Quote
*A:M User* Shelton Posted October 25, 2011 *A:M User* Posted October 25, 2011 Great job. You guys can do it all, rigging, modelling, animate etc.... Really looks good David! Steve Quote
itsjustme Posted October 26, 2011 Author Posted October 26, 2011 Thanks, Steve. I still have a lot to learn...I'm actually trying to implement a few things I learned recently on this guy. I lengthened and enlarged the calves (which shortened the thighs), made a new ear and tweaked the face and head a lot today...I'm starting to call him "Van" (since I'm trying to make a vanilla character). There are a few things that I'm still mulling over like the hooks on the shoulders...I may wait and see how things pan out during the rigging process to decide on those. Tomorrow, I'm going to model the inside of the mouth, then I can see about rigging him. Since I've neglected showing wireframe images, I've included those as well. Quote
mouseman Posted October 28, 2011 Posted October 28, 2011 It's nice seeing your splineage choices, especially on the head. There are lots of trade-offs that have to be made. Quote
*A:M User* Shelton Posted October 28, 2011 *A:M User* Posted October 28, 2011 David Very nice splinage. I would not call him vanilla as I think he has a lot of character!! Steve Quote
Admin Rodney Posted October 28, 2011 Admin Posted October 28, 2011 Wow David. That is some seriously optimal splinage. I've been looking at your layout with an eye to trim something but haven't found anything yet. In my own personal wanderings I'm long tried to get rid of that center spline but as it's so necessarily for CFA procedures I haven't found a way to (effectively) get rid of it yet. In your (final... final.... final) model would you be able to get rid of it? Quote
itsjustme Posted October 29, 2011 Author Posted October 29, 2011 It's nice seeing your splineage choices, especially on the head. There are lots of trade-offs that have to be made. Yessir, always a lot of trade-offs. When to use a five point patch, when to use a hook, etc. I would not call him vanilla as I think he has a lot of character!! Hmmm, there is another thing I'm kicking around in my head. I made him less cartoony than I probably should have if I want to be able to use the extreme squetching aspects of the rig, so, I've been thinking about putting him in a super hero spandex suit with an emblem on his chest as an explanation of those "powers". I've been looking at your layout with an eye to trim something but haven't found anything yet. I've tried to stick to a couple of things that work best for the way I want to rig him. Eight splines for the eyelids, limbs and fingers and twelve splines for the mouth (but, technically it's actually fourteen with the way the upper lip is built). I don't like the number of splines I had to use to attach the ears, but with the added detail it was necessary. In my own personal wanderings I'm long tried to get rid of that center spline but as it's so necessarily for CFA procedures I haven't found a way to (effectively) get rid of it yet. In your (final... final.... final) model would you be able to get rid of it? You might be able to get rid of the center spline using some bias adjustment, but it's a lot easier to just keep it. Quote
itsjustme Posted November 1, 2011 Author Posted November 1, 2011 Okay, I've got the interior of the mouth modeled, once again tweaked the length of the legs, lifted the head and tweaked the shoulders to relax them. Then, I added some basic bones in the arms to make sure the shoulders would look alright when the arms are lowered. After that, I added some guide bones before actually rigging...it just makes the process go a little faster and keeps me from being more obsessive. Of course there will probably be more tweaks to the modeling as he gets rigged, but this is going to be my starting point. Here are the renders I made to do some double-checking. Quote
itsjustme Posted November 18, 2011 Author Posted November 18, 2011 I hate having to post a "stay alive" for this thread, but I got extremely busy the past couple of weeks. I did some CP Weighting on the guide bones to make sure my modeling was working on the generic character and made some modeling fixes (around the hips for better bending and upper arm to get rid of a "Michellin Man" effect). I have also done a few animating exercises to get myself a little practice (just some bouncing ball stuff which I'll expand upon over the next month or so, I'll post all of it when I get things to a point where I need some critiques) and did some modeling that isn't finished yet. I have never gone through all of the exercises I've seen with bouncing balls and I felt like it would be a good thing to do. I'm going to try to get something in a state where I can post it in the next week...could be several things if I'm lucky. Quote
Hash Fellow robcat2075 Posted November 18, 2011 Hash Fellow Posted November 18, 2011 Glad to hear you're still on it. Eager to see the bouncing balls too. Quote
itsjustme Posted November 19, 2011 Author Posted November 19, 2011 Eager to see the bouncing balls too. Your opinion would be very appreciated, Robert. I went ahead and posted a basic first exercise here. I thought about waiting, since it is so simple...but then decided that if there were a fundamental error in the most basic stuff, I should find out before making the same mistake in the more complex exercises. It's not much at this point, but I know I shouldn't skip ahead if I expect to get any benefit. Quote
mtpeak2 Posted November 19, 2011 Posted November 19, 2011 Looks great David, though the head and neck look a bit too large for his body. Quote
itsjustme Posted November 19, 2011 Author Posted November 19, 2011 Looks great David, though the head and neck look a bit too large for his body. I'll do some more tweaking. Thanks, Mark! Quote
itsjustme Posted December 11, 2011 Author Posted December 11, 2011 As much as I don't like doing them, I'll have to use a "stay alive" post for this thread again. This is the busiest time of year for me, so I haven't been able to get much done beyond the first bouncing ball exercises...I learned quite a bit doing those though, thanks to Robert. If I'm lucky, I'll get some time this week to get more things done. Quote
itsjustme Posted December 30, 2011 Author Posted December 30, 2011 My free time has been nearly zero for the past couple of weeks, but next week will start to get better. I've done some tweaking to the generic man and done some work on the next ball bounce stuff, but not enough to post yet. So, one more "stay alive" post for now. Quote
itsjustme Posted January 4, 2012 Author Posted January 4, 2012 I did a bunch of tweaking and spline re-routing on the generic character (lengthened the torso, made the head and neck a little smaller, re-routed splines for better shoulders, chest and back)...I think he's a little better. I still have some tweaks I'm thinking about on the face. Quote
*A:M User* Shelton Posted January 4, 2012 *A:M User* Posted January 4, 2012 Hi David the tweaking looks great. I think you are there in the shoulders and chest areas. Really nice Steve Quote
Hash Fellow robcat2075 Posted January 4, 2012 Hash Fellow Posted January 4, 2012 He's lookin' solid! Quote
itsjustme Posted January 4, 2012 Author Posted January 4, 2012 Here's the wireframe with some closer shots of the torso...I ran out of time last night. Quote
Fuchur Posted January 4, 2012 Posted January 4, 2012 Here's the wireframe with some closer shots of the torso...I ran out of time last night. I like him now... at first his head was much to big for me, but now he is looking very well and the splining is very nice too Go on like that and he will be outstanding . See you *Fuchur* Quote
Paul Forwood Posted January 5, 2012 Posted January 5, 2012 Looking good, David, though I wonder if you could tweak the splines around the shoulder blades enough to get rid of that hooked spline. I'm a bit fanatical about avoiding hooks, especially if they are not being hidden in seams or under other geometry. I know that rendering hooks has improved a lot so maybe my over cautious attitude is irrelevant now. Old habits die hard. Quote
itsjustme Posted January 5, 2012 Author Posted January 5, 2012 Looking good, David, though I wonder if you could tweak the splines around the shoulder blades enough to get rid of that hooked spline. I'm a bit fanatical about avoiding hooks, especially if they are not being hidden in seams or under other geometry. I know that rendering hooks has improved a lot so maybe my over cautious attitude is irrelevant now. Old habits die hard. I'm the same way, Paul. I try to avoid five point and three point patches along with hooks whenever possible. I tried a few different ways to get rid of both the three point patch and the hook, but I haven't come up with anything that worked better in this situation yet. I figured since the shoulder blade is pretty flat, any issues could be minimized with a little tweaking...it seems to be holding up, but it may change if I can come up with a better solution. Quote
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