Fuchur

Actually, from my experience, it is more work. What I have found is: The cheaper your printer, the more work you have to put in to keep it functioning nicely. I have a P1S by Bambu Labs nowadays and it works pretty nicely from the get go. My former Maker Bot Replicator 2 was nice but much more trouble and if you wanted trouble (meaning: Less time printing more time fiddeling with it) get a Replicator 2x. (even when i got it and it was a two headed printer, which was way cooler, I just printed everything on my Rep2, because it was THAT much more reliable) Today my P1S is pretty much ready to go without much more to do. Actually the P1S was less expensive than my Maker Bot Replicator 2 was, but if you think of how many years have been inbetween those, it makes sense again. My Elegoo Mars (resin printer) is fun too, BUT you have to handle pretty toxic materials meaning you should wear protective gear, have to use UV lights to harden the outcome, need to wash it with chemicals, etc. And as mentioned before: If you want to "only" create decorative figures, Resin printers are very nice. If you want to create "functional" stuff with it, you likely want to go with FDM machines, UNLESS you are only using it to create molds for other procedures afterwards. (but at least if you want it to do by your own, that one is tricky... I will not put a smelting furnace with thousands of degrees in my yard to create iron parts or something like that. ) Best regards *Fuchur*

In general that should work... it is all about the slicer so, not the printer itself. Best regards *Fuchur*

Yes it can be done. Depends on the material which once work. Some are pretty toxic so, but it depends. But you can easily go smaller than 0.1mm (100 microns) with a resin printer... If you go with 10-50 microns (depends on the printer if you can) you will likely do no longer see the rings with bare eyes. Still they will be there especially with round shapes you print in the "wrong" direction / rotation. (sometimes you can not do it differently) These are some of mine with my resin printer where you can see it on the sphere stuff too: https://www.patchwork3d.de/blog-5-en/schmuck-aus-dem-dlp-drucker-elegoo-mars-1029 But the problem with resin printers is: You need more time and it is more trouble for less strong parts. If you want to do small figures, resin is great, if you need strong parts to be useable in real world scenario you want a FDM machine. Best regards *Fuchur*

Perfectly executed commercial for donuts I would say. Very nicely done. Best regards *Fuchur*

Congratulations everybody. Very well done! And of cause thanks a lot to Robert too for hosting the contest and all the work you did there. Best regards *Fuchur*

- First suggestion: Get rid of Chrome all along and use Firefox... - Go in the task manager and go to "details" instead of only the apps view. There you should be able to finde chrome.exe or something in that direction. - If not, there is likely a program using a WebView by Chrome . Shut down all of them. Best regards *Fuchur*

TVs are optimized for TV usage, meaning a distance of something like more than 2m and up, in general not static content, etc. If you sit at that distance and watch mainly content in motion, all is fine – if you are closer, they are not optimal – color profiles and sharpness algorithms are not the same. Additionally to that the TV might not be optimized for higher FPS etc (because movies / TV shows are somewhere around 50/60 FPS in general while computer output can be much faster), but that depends. Short answer: It is best to use the TV / display for its intended usecase. If you will notice the difference depends a little bit on you... some can see a big difference between 60 Hz vs 144 Hz vs 240 Hz, HDR, color corrections, brightnesslevels, etc. some do not. So the answer is a little bit: It depends. Best regards *Fuchur*

A TV is not a computer display – be aware of that. Especially if you want to read text or something like that, many TVs will not do the best job in showing that too you. I am using two displays or even three sometimes for at least 10 years with A:M and it is fully fine. Best regards *Fuchur*

Wow, those look amazing. VERY well done. I actually thought the first one was a real life picture or a product image before I read it. Nice. 😍 Best regards *Fuchur*

I actually started with a software called "Monzoom 3d / Pro" from Oberland Computer. That was a small company which I found a software package in a department store from when I was 14 or something like that. (roundabout 1998) A couple of years later they went bankrupt and gave out a small broschure for reasonable priced 3d software alternatives to their customers with some smaller deals in there. (it still is available here for free download nowadays, but of cause very old today: https://www.geoxis.de/monzoom/downloads.htm) There was a deal for Maxon's Cinema4d "light" and a couple of other software... one was Martin Hash's Animation:Master which I especially liked because most other software back then was not aimed at character animation which Monzoom lagged too, while A:M was pretty much focused on that. And that is how I came to A:M. Later I used 3ds and XSI (at work) too, but nothing came close to the ease of use of A:M and so I stayed. I created a couple of animations for work (because they saw how fast I could create stuff with it ;)), in my studies and my diplom thesis and of cause a lot of different smaller and bigger work for fun. Best regards *Fuchur*

Just amazing Mike, just amazing. 1998 is even before I started with A:M (first verison was 8.0 / 2000 for me) when I was a teenager. You already created amazing stuff :). Really great to see that. Best regards *Fuchur*

You can of cause re-embedded it too, if you want to. For that go to the model in the PWS, have a look at the properties and go to "File Info > Embedded". Just switch this to yes and it is in again. Best regards *Fuchur*

Sorry, that one seems to be gone. Maybe Chris or Stefen have it still, but I doubt it. I asked to get the version, he gave it to me and after a while Steffen included it into A:M. You would need to use a newer version of A:M to export. Best regards *Fuchur*

Happy New Year everybody.

Hi Carlos, you can get the newest version (if you do already have a licence version of A:M 19.0 by going to this link: 1.) Using your file explorer go to your installation folder of 19.0 and COPY the file "master0.lic" to your desktop. 2.) Download the new version here: 3.) Install v19.5. 4.) Go to the installation folder of v19.5 and copy the file "master0.lic" from your desktop to this folder. 5.) Open v19.5. If everything worked out, it should now just work. Otherwise your licence may no longer be current or you might want to try to rename master0.lic in the 19.5 folder to "master0.bak" and try reentering your subscription code. Best regards *Fuchur*