Fuchur Posted November 24, 2012 Posted November 24, 2012 I recently got my Makerbot Replicator 2 and am trying it out right now. If you are interested, you may want to follow my blog about it... I used it with A:M's STL-Export-Feature and got my first results so I am struggeling with some start up problems right now... anyway it is really fun! PW3d Blog: First impressions with the Makerbot Replicator 2 See you *Fuchur* Quote
Hash Fellow robcat2075 Posted November 24, 2012 Hash Fellow Posted November 24, 2012 That looks like fun! Quote
Hash Fellow robcat2075 Posted November 24, 2012 Hash Fellow Posted November 24, 2012 On the leftover problem... Does it matter what the bottom surface is? What if you taped a sheet of paper ( or wax paper, or plastic overhead projector film...) to the platform before the model started? You could peel that off and throw it away each time. Quote
John Bigboote Posted November 24, 2012 Posted November 24, 2012 Cool, thanks for sharing your experience... I think we all are at least a 'little bit' curious about this technology... and the potential uses. Quote
zandoriastudios Posted November 24, 2012 Posted November 24, 2012 I was reading the Make Magazine 3D Printers buyers guide this week, and they recommend blue painters tape on the build platform! I am planning to order a makerbot also--can't wait to see some characters printed Quote
pixelplucker Posted November 24, 2012 Posted November 24, 2012 I think the Solidoodly has a higher resolution than the Makerbots. In any case you want a heated build platform to keep the object from warping for that type of printer. I believe the build platforms have a non stick coating on them. I would think tape might leave a residue and also change your z position by the thickness of the tape. Maybe a non-toxic parafin based mold release could be used if the surface gave you any trouble. Quote
Fuchur Posted November 25, 2012 Author Posted November 25, 2012 I think the Solidoodly has a higher resolution than the Makerbots. In any case you want a heated build platform to keep the object from warping for that type of printer. I believe the build platforms have a non stick coating on them. I would think tape might leave a residue and also change your z position by the thickness of the tape. Maybe a non-toxic parafin based mold release could be used if the surface gave you any trouble. As far as I know and can see the facts given by the companies this is not true. From what I've read, the replicator 2 is only beaten by the Form 1 in terms of resolution (100 microns vs 25 microns). I am not totally sure about what this means, but in general we are talking about layer-thinkness here. But this is due to the different technology which it uses. Form 1 uses laser lithography with ace resin to print with... a very nice technology but it has a few drawbacks... the biggest one is the price. Ace resin is about 4 times as expensive as PLA, which is used for the makerbot replicator 2. Another disadvantage (not nearly as important for me) is that it is not that hard than PLA.. so if you want to create working models, it may be not that good suited for that... These are the direct comparision-infos given by both companies These infos tell you something about the positing of the extruder, not the actual layer height, as far as I can see: Solidoodle: Z-Axis: 0.1mm or 0.3mm X / Y-Axis: 0.011mm Makerbot Replicator 2: Z-Axis: 0.025 mm (or higher) X / Y-Axis: 0.011 mm Layerheight for both seems to be 0.1mm (so I am not sure about that) at the solidoodle... it was quite a sensation when Makerbot brought out the Replicator 2 with its resolution and I have not heard that much about the solidoodle there... but anyway I am not saying that they are lying, so I think they are both more or less equally good in the resolution-settings. The heated build platform is used only for ABS printers (like the makerbot replicator 1) but can not (or at least is not) used for PLA... but PLA has a few advantages over ABS... one is, that it does not shrink very much... ABS is very different here and you will always even see a difference between heated ABS and cold ABS. PLA is much less temperature sensitive than ABS and it will refrigerate much faster than ABS (close to immediately). I got rid of the stuck PLA by using alcohol (sprit, to be precises which I let it soak in) and a good cleaning sponge and a spacula... still to much for for me to do that very often, so I did go with the blue paper... it was in the box, but the introduction video told me, that I did not have to use it and it would have some drawbacks (less good sticking surface... well in the end that is what I wanted ) so I did not use it in the first place... Anyway I am printing happily again Thanks for your recommendations... if the blue paper gets scratched in future I will definitivly try out wax paper... seems to me like a good alternative... Normal paper will begin burning at around 170 - 200 °C and since there can be temperatures above that at the nozzle, it would be a little dangerous with normal paper. Thanks again guys See you *Fuchur* Quote
Hash Fellow robcat2075 Posted November 25, 2012 Hash Fellow Posted November 25, 2012 Vegetable cooking spray. Quote
jakerupert Posted November 25, 2012 Posted November 25, 2012 Also the contrary technique, cuting out the item out of a block is quite interesting. There is some "Minifräse" for homeuse available from Roland and I just watched a video, where an artist cut out 20 statues simultaniously out of wood. I don`t know about the precision comparde though. http://www.ben-godi.com/artwork/natural-gi...mancipated.html Quote
agep Posted November 26, 2012 Posted November 26, 2012 Congrats with your Makerbot. I have one ordered myself, but due to 8 weeks lead time it will take some time before I can play with it. The Replicator 2 is a big step up from my Makerbot Thing-O-Matic, which I have had a lot of fun with Quote
jakerupert Posted November 26, 2012 Posted November 26, 2012 Hi Agep, Please excuse my curiosity, but since you haven`t posted anything new of your outstanding work lately, neither here nor on your .biz website, I am wondering if you maybe have changed your businessmodel from freelance to ( confidential ) company work? all the best Jake Quote
agep Posted November 26, 2012 Posted November 26, 2012 Sorry for hijacking this thread. I have been away for a while due to a prolapsed disc in my back which have made it close to impossible for me to do much computerwork. I am also in the middle of changing dayjobs which have required me to do a lot of preparations (starts at a new company in December). All this has eaten up all my spare time for fun projects I have never done much freelance projects, just now and then, most of my projects posted on my .biz site and YouTube have been personal projects Best regards Stian Quote
Hash Fellow robcat2075 Posted November 26, 2012 Hash Fellow Posted November 26, 2012 Sorry for hijacking this thread. I have been away for a while due to a prolapsed disc in my back which have made it close to impossible for me to do much computerwork... Glad to hear you are doing better. We look forward to your projects, pro or personal! Quote
jakerupert Posted November 26, 2012 Posted November 26, 2012 Hi Stian, Very sorry to hear about your health problem. Glad you are better now and wish you all the best for your new dayjob. Have a good start. I always hoped for you to be succsessfull to aquire enough freelancework for making a living from that. (In fact, I thought, you were just doing that) But not at the price of severe back and health problems. And Fuchur, I am sorry for hijacking your thread a bit here too. I opened up a new thread for the milling topic... all the best Jake Quote
KingVidiot Posted December 2, 2012 Posted December 2, 2012 I had a great discussion with the creators and techs at Siggraph, and they printed one of my models. I will get one when I can. For STL files try this free site that optimizes and fixes errors in files before printing: http://cloud.netfabb.com/ Quote
Hash Fellow robcat2075 Posted December 22, 2012 Hash Fellow Posted December 22, 2012 Here's a crazy 3D printer project... LP records: http://www.instructables.com/id/3D-Printed-Record/ It barely works. Quote
NancyGormezano Posted December 22, 2012 Posted December 22, 2012 Here's a crazy 3D printer project... LP records: http://www.instructables.com/id/3D-Printed-Record/ It barely works. Love it! But my ears are bleeding. (that is a great website) Quote
KingVidiot Posted December 23, 2012 Posted December 23, 2012 Here's a crazy 3D printer project... LP records: http://www.instructables.com/id/3D-Printed-Record/ It barely works. It's one of those "do it because you can" projects. The fidelity stinks but it's still very cool. Quote
Hash Fellow robcat2075 Posted December 23, 2012 Hash Fellow Posted December 23, 2012 I bet you could make some decent 78's with that. Those had a much wider groove and faster speed. I have an old crank Victrola, it would be fun to make records for it. Quote
agep Posted January 27, 2013 Posted January 27, 2013 Just got my Replicator 2 earlier this week. It sure does kick the crap out of my old Thing-O-Matic. Here is a print of the alligator head I made a few years ago. The print is about 7cm long from the back of the head to the tip of its nose. I have uploaded the model to Thingiverse if someone else wants to print it Quote
Fuchur Posted January 27, 2013 Author Posted January 27, 2013 Looks really cool . I am currently printing a customized smart phone holder for my car. It will (hopefully) fit into a storage tray I've got in my DS4 next to my gear selector. It is designed to hold my Samsung Galaxy Note II in it and to be easily removed from it. It will print a while (printing at highest resolution-settings) but I'll show it off when it is ready. See you *Fuchur* PS: If you are looking PLA-material, have a look at Plastic2Print.com located in the Netherlands. You will need to print your own spool-holder first (there are really nice once on thingiverse or you just model your own, like I did), but it works great and costs much less compared with buying the PLA from Makerbot themselves. (at least here in Germany it is the much better way of getting PLA) Quote
Hash Fellow robcat2075 Posted January 27, 2013 Hash Fellow Posted January 27, 2013 Very impressive output! It even has some subsurface scattering. Quote
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