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Thanks! I feel like I really learned a lot by doing the project, and I appreciate the help all of you gave during the process. I hope that reading this thread will also help others who might want to try 3-D printing.

well it's taken a bit, but this project is ready for paint. Some stats: Papa Bear stands 4.15 inches tall. The base is 5.5 inches long. There are 5 separate prints done; Papa Bear, his fishing pole, the base, and the fins of the fish. All were modeled in A:M, exported at 64 subd. Printed under a normal setting with 100% infill (the fishing rod and fish fins) to 20% infill (papa bear and the base). The fish in the base is a perfect example of being able to print merged models. The fish is a separate model which I placed in a chor with the base, scaled down, then simply set inside the base and posed. The slicing software (CURA) had no problem with it. The fins I had to model and print separately since they were simply too fine and at a bad position for 3d printing. Once printed it took some cleanup. Heavy sanding to get the support ridges smoothed out, then I hit Papa Bear with two coats of model filler to hide much of the layering. Sanded, then painted with a car body primer filler spray paint. Now I will paint with some Testors Model Paint, then a clear coat. Then Papa Bear will take his place on the shelf of glory in my office!

Hello All, Animation Master Community chat server is back. I'm sorry it was down so long I kind of forgot about it in the move. But it's in it's temp home for now but soon(well not that soon... but soon) will be moving to if permanent home. I have a few things to finish both personal and for Hash, Inc. then Hash, Inc. will be getting a new "project" server and Community will move there.

On to the next project! Building a "working" model of the Mad Hatter's Tea Cup Ride in Disney. Complete with spinning tea cups, and a dormouse that pops up out of the tea pot.

I think if you turn down the particle velocity, the bubble will be a bit more bubbly. Your fish project is still in your other thread, isn't it?

Project1.prj Lost fish project so decided to try bubble idea bubble.tga bubble.mp4 bubble.avi

Robert Thank you very much indeed. Thats a lot better than sequence I have already. I think it may lead to a different animation rather than redo the current project. Should be more fun though ! regards simon

I oft times get sucked down the rabbit hole when it comes to A:M. Someone shouts "squirrel!" and I'm off on a tangent faster than you can animate a blink. Last month I bought some new filament for my 3D printer. It was advertised to print looking like wood. So I ask myself, just what can I print to test out that claim? My mind went to a pirate cannon. Of course it did. So I go straight to my favorite 3D modeling software (A:M) and model up a pirate canon, and send it off to my 3D printer. Needless to say the first time through wasn't all that great, but lessons were learned. Below are some images to show how this little worked out. I'm forcing myself to move on to another project, since if I allowed myself I'm sure I would be modeling a whole pirate ship! The A:M model looks a bit like this Of course I had to animate it: canon_fire.avi and the final 3D printed looks like this: The A:M model had to be broken up 18 separate models

Hi Robcat, You have always been very helpful. It's too late for the contest, but it just so happens that my project involves a model of a plane.

Trying to composite sequences into scenes and can't get anything to work. Elements (rendered frames) are totally unresponsive. Am trying to layer clips and have one clip start at a certain frame. It shows on the layers timeline(the one next to the project tree) correctly but wont start with the frames specified in the Chor Range settings. The layers are compositing ok but cant control the TIMING. Anyone have any experience with this at all? Any help would be appreciated greatly. thanks

Hi David i believe the simplest solution is to save a PRJ with all those files embedded. Load your PRJ in A:M Do Project>Embed All Resave your PRJ with a new name Use the new PRJ for Net Render.

Goodday all. I have downloaded 19g and netrender is giving error message. I have loaded the correct project, chor, camera, output location, etc into netrender. As soon as the render process starts a error appears. The error message says files (.act .mdl) are missing for my project. Netrender is searching in the c:\Program File\Hash inc\v19\Data\Material\..... for action and model files for my project. I have not saved my act and mdl file in that location. Why is netrender searching for it in that location. The act and mdl files for my project is saved in my 'document' folder. How do I tell netrender to look in my document folder? When rendering from within AM there are no problems. Hope I explained my problem clearly. Thanks David

So I think I'm about 95% down with the server move. Done to date: ftp.hash.com https://www.hash.com https://amfilms.hash.com/ https://reports.hash.com/login_page.php https://www.hash.com/stills the activation server https://wiki.hash.com/index.php/Main_Page https://www.hash.com/faq/ Things I know are not working Add renders nodes(this may take some work) extra dvd download flat rate shipping looking up license codes on the new server(that is the next project!) A download page to send with the subscription(I had one, but my mistake with the hash.com move lost it this morning) sleeping.. no really haha lets just use this post to report things that are not working for now. The goal is to get this all done before I leave for Las Vegs for the Super Bowl

Much like a maquette. I have several of those of Papa Bear sitting on my desk now. Flemm's ship would be cool, but you'd have to break it down to it's components then assemble like a model. Would be a fun project.

I should probably be at a point where I have a secret lair first. 🙂 Mostly, this action figure project is just for fun, but the "big one" I'd go for is to remodel Flemm's ship, the Sea Anemone, to be printed at the same scale as the action figure. That would be super cool.

Finally finished with school. So now I can get back to my real show. I am working on getting a bunch of still images turned into a video. The version of FCPX that I am using is: The directions I am using are: In your FCPX preferences/settings, change the default still frame duration to 1 frame. Import all of your still image files into FCPX. Create a new project and drag all of your still images into the timeline. ‘Select All’ so that every image in the timeline is selected. Right click and select ‘Make Compound Clip’. Use your new compound clip as a video file in any regular project. Line 1 makes sense until you look at my preferences box: Still image Duration is set in seconds not frames. So I divided 1 second by 30 and got .03. I put that in and it still set each still image to about 15 frames. No bueno. Is there a way to either directly set the duration to frames, or set the units of time to frames? What am I missing Thanx for the help. Thumperness (David)

Overview of Fishdom - an amusing puzzle game on Android Fishdom is a three-in-a-row puzzle game developed by the popular company Playrix Entertainment. Due to the bright graphics and continuous gameplay, the application has gained high popularity among users in all countries of the world. Here the player has to build and decorate a virtual underwater world. Let’s go through our article to understand why you should download this game right away! About the game This game project is a Puzzle game classic in the "three in a row" genre. You will need not only to decorate the underwater kingdom where the fish and other inhabitants live but also to build identical elements, three in a row. After connecting the same chips in a chain, they disappear and bring the player points, which are used to upgrade the aquarium. With points, you can buy accessories for aquarium, fish and other things. Underwater world decorations include various shells, algae, and decorative objects. In the game, you will see lots of fishes, which differ among themselves in value and their abilities. You can buy underwater pets and decorative accessories for your aquarium in unlimited quantities. Pet comfort items include troughs, water purifiers, and aerators. They provide excellent conditions for living fish in your tank. By playing Fishdom online, the player can receive rewards in the form of cups. In the game project, there are three types of awards: bronze, gold and silver cups. And after completing the assigned tasks and building a full-fledged underwater world, the player will have to design a new aquarium. The game Fishdom has many levels of varying difficulty. If you doubt the correctness of their actions, you can use some tips. As you progress through the level, a picture with an image of what your pet needs will appear next to each fish. All this can be bought after completing the game tasks or for the game currency collected earlier. To quickly pass the levels you need to collect chips not in three rows, but four or five. The longer a chain of identical elements forms, the more bonuses there are. When a player reaches the last levels, obstacles for completing tasks will appear on the way. They can not be removed or removed from the collected points. For more information about us Read more Fishdom game features Check out this game's key following features: Animated graphics allow the player to dive into the virtual underwater world. The musical accompaniment of the gameplay provides an opportunity to relax and enjoy the pleasant atmosphere of the game. Having hundreds of levels of varying difficulty. A lot of 3D fish. Each has its character and unique abilities. Build the perfect underwater kingdom with decorative objects. Free application. Additional functions in the game can be bought with money without going through difficult levels. Play with friends online via the Internet. Wrapping it up! We hope after reading our article, you are now feeling excited this excellent puzzle game. If you have not played the fascinating Fishdom puzzle yet, then download and install the application on your phone and plunge into the virtual underwater kingdom. You can also check for Puzzle game girl. Have fun!

Thanks, Jason and many thanks to Steffen for this new release. I've been alpha-testing v19g for several weeks now and it does fix a lot of pesky problems. However, I have noticed a problem around complicated "Undo" operations. I don't know exactly what circumstance triggers it but most of the freezes I've had have come after an Undo after some sort of copy task, like the Dupe wizard. I suggest everyone enable the automatic backup feature in A:M. Do that and you need never lose more than 5 minutes of work. It's on a Tab in Options: Aside from checking Auto Backup, i recommend you also enable "Use global backup directory" and choose an easy to find location on your fastest drive. Set the "Interval" to 5 minutes. After you make these settings, force a Project Save before you quit A:M to make it remember these new preferences. Every x minutes A:M will capture the entire hierarchy of your project across multiple drives or folders and backup all relevant files. If you have a crash you could open up the PRJ in the backup folder and work on that, but then you wouldn't be working in your regular project folder anymore. I usually just pluck out the files that I need to recover from the backup (for me, it's always a PRJ) and drop those into the relevant spot in my regular work folder, then resume A:M-ing A:M saves each of these backups in a folder with your PRJ name and adds a unique number to distinguish it from previous backups of the same-named PRJ. It retains up to the number you have in "Count" and deletes older ones. However, when you save your current PRJ under a new name (such as with an incremented version number like i do) A:M starts over and ignores older backups under previous PRJ names. They will pile up... you need to go into the backup dir and clean it out occasionally. Why do I save increment numbered versions if A:M is making automatic backups? Because I know I may need to backtrack on my work, not just 20 minutes, but maybe days to recover from some strategy mistake I've made even if A:M never crashes at all. A:M Automatic Backup. Turn it on. Use it. You will never need to lose important work again. Example backup result...

The subject of Desired Gamma came up and I was unable to get my software to cooperate at the time, so, I made an attempt at a video explanation of the little I know that I am posting here along with the Projects used and renders. One thing I still don't think I got across in the video is that if you are working with 2.2 gamma images, the gamma correction can get re-applied automatically with each iteration causing the image or portion of image (and colors) to lighten. Anyway, here is the video and Project files. Hopefully, it is helpful. Desired_gamma_testing.mp4 Desired_Gamma_testing.zip

You probably have noticed that Z-buffered Kleig light soft shadows (most of what we use) are not rendering soft. Shadow cast on Ground Plane... However, it turns out that models can shadow themselves correctly. So... Use the Grid wizard to add a flat plane to your model and give it a bone that is independent from everything else in your model. In the Chor, constrain that bone to the Ground, then set the Ground to OFF. You can scale that bone to scale the plane to be as large as you need. Shadow cast on plane that is part of model... Of course this won't work when you have more than one model in a chor. For that, take your project to V18 and render there.

Thanks for your efforts Robert. I don't think I had ever used that frame block view of a chor. After watching your experimentation I decided to start from scratch to see if I could reproduce it using a new project, chor and just the tree trunk and branch model ... and I couldn't … still had the same problem. After playing around fruitlessly with the various parameters you suggested I wondered whether my problem was related to the fact that I was using the same model as an action object in both actions. And sure enough when I made the second action with a renamed copy of the branch model, everything worked as you had shown and as I had expected in the first place. So I'll have to re-think my plan to populate a distant tree with only one branch model. Thanks again.

Yeah I stopped on that. I thought I was going to have help on activation but I did not. So I moved on to that project. I'm down to one thing before the finale move getting the new store to checkout. But I'm not sure on that.

I'm making a project that involves a solid-spoked wheel, much like many car wheels are today without hub caps. To cut down on the modeling I used some lathing and duplicate techniques. I based my lathe outline on a rotoscope diagram. I used two CPs at every corner to make a sharpish but still-beveled edge... This wheel has 8 spokes (with 8 holes in between) and a bump on each spoke. The easiest way to model a round bump or hole is to stitch it in on splines between two other splines. That means a minimum of four splines across for each instance of a hole and a spoke with a bump... To support 8 holes/spokes, i need to do a 32 cross section lathe. (You set that at Tools>Options>Modeling)... However, the five-pointers around holes and bumps prefer not to be stretched very far or around large turns. I'll need extra splineage where I've drawn it in... To create those spline I put some extra CPs in the lathe outline where i wouldn't normally need them for a straight spline. I broke up one spline crossing and spread the edge splines apart to start the pie-shaped hole... Connect the front and back edge splines... The corners are 6-points and need to be split into two 5-pointers. I add a CP to the middle of each front-back spline with the Y key and stitch in a middle spline... The five pointer patches are still visibly wrinkled from having to turn a large angle. I stitch in a new spline around the hole between the middle spline and the old square edges and hook in a new radial spline at each corner at the wide end of the hole... Now the 5-pointers don't have to do much curve work. I stitch in the oval spline for the bump on the spoke and that gets me one finished hole and spoke... I could do this seven more time around the wheel, but there is an easier way... I cut out the 5 lathe sections that contain this new modeling and deleted one lathe section on the edge to leave hanging splines... I grouped that, set its Pivot to 0,0,0, the copied, pasted and rotated the pasted part 45°... I connected each hanging spline to its immediate neighbor in the old section. This new quarter section gets copied, pasted, rotated 90° and connected to make a half section. The new half section gets copied, pasted, rotated 180° and connected to make a complete wheel.