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You have to turn on the pose for it to work.

Until we get the units worked out ... You will need to use an Orthogonal camera rotated 90 degrees on the X axis (pointing straight down.) An orthogonal camera won't distort your grid because it doesn't use perspective.

I think Robcat may have better understood your question. since you are rendering for a game, you can probably go with 72dpi. in Photoshop, make a blank image with the dimensions you want ( in Inches at 72dpi). Photoshop will tell you how many pixels high and wide that is. In AM, render that many pixels high and wide.

unless you have a boatload of RAM, I think you'll probably have to render it in sections and piece it together in a paint program. What resolution are you printing to? (150dpi. 200dpi etc) That will determine how large your chunks are. Do you need full perspective, or will the flat perspective that an Orthogonal camera provides suit you?

Way to go kat! One more scene finished

There was once a bevel plugin called Zevel by Marcel Bricman, but that was a long time ago. I don't even know if it works with the current version. http://www.kci-group.com/z/plugins.htm

Great commercial!

Excellent Mark. It looks like you found the perfect place for it too.

nice shed! Your walls need a top plate. If you are not using metal brackets for the rough window sills, you will need a couple of extra cripple studs under each window. Usually, if the window spans more than one space between studs, you need to put a header over each window. Your rafters need a top beam running the length of the shed to maintain their spacing while you are climbing around up there tacking on sheeting. You should extend the rafters a foot or two past the outer walls to keep water from running off the roof, down your walls and rotting them. You cut the ends of the rafters perpendicular to the ground and then nail a fascia to them. (A shed roof is much easier and cheaper. You have a gabled roof there.) In my somewhat limited experience, all the studs in a wall are usually oriented the same way. In your image, the studs at the ends of each wall are rotated 90 degrees. Then you place three studs (instead of one) at the corners so you have a nailing surface inside the structure at the corners. There are some good tutorials on the web about framing a simple structure.

I don't use the dopesheet much either, but here is how to make the mouth move more smoothly if you do use it. It's a bit of a process. After you enter all your words and get the timing all set up, Click on each pose channel (for each phoneme pose ie. E, FV, MPB etc)) under the action in the PWS. Switch to "Channel View" in the PWS timeline. Delete any keyframes that are less than one frame apart. You want *at least* one frame between keyframes. Click in the channel window and hit [ctrl]-A to select all the keyframes. Right-click in the selection box and choose Interpolation > spline. There will be a bunch of splines that dip below 0%, and probably a few that raise above 100% Drag the keyframes where the splines dip below 0% up until the splines sit at 0% at their lowest point. Drag the keyframes where the splines raise above 100% down until the splines sit at 100% at their highest point. Do this for each Phoneme pose channel in the action.

Oooo. Nice tutorial! Please upload that to the Tutorials forum!

It doesn't seem like your patch count is the problem. You have more than enough ram for what you are doing. Your graphic card seems fine, but you can get MUCH better graphics for about $150.00 (USD) now days. I am guessing some process running in the background on your computer is hogging your CPU. Perhaps you can try turning off the Windows Indexing service ... sometimes that helps. When was the last time you ran a virus scan and a spyware scan?

I can't find it either. Hopefully Rodney will read this and point us to it.

In the tutorials section, there used to be one on making lightning. I haven't looked at it since the section got reorganized, but I'm sure it is still in there somewhere.

I like the second punch line best

It appears that you must use a tube instead of a simple spline. Though a spline would make things much easier... glow.zip

first ... you can change how many sections the lathe tool creates. The default is 8, but I have it set to 6 for most things. Go to Tools > Options > Modeling and look for the box labeled "Lathe cross sections". "Snap to Grid" is mis-named I think. I doesn't actually snap CPs to the grid. It snaps CPs a predefined distance when you move them. That distance is defined by your grid spacing (Tools > Options > Modeling > Grid Spacing). If your grid spacing is 5cm, the CP will jump in 5cm increments when you move it. If the CP happens to originate on a grid line, it looks like it is snapping to the grid, but it really isn't. If I understand the question correctly, this might help: Group-select the CPs. [sHIFT]-Click on the CP (within the group) for which you want to define coordinates. Click on the "Show Manipulator Properties" button in the toolbar. Enter your values for X, Y and Z. The [shift] selected CP will move to that location and the rest of the group will follow along.

In addition to everything everyone else has already said .... Please don't render to jpeg images. At the very least, render to png. (TGA is best). There will be times when you will have to do some work on the rendered image in a paint app. It helps tremendously if your original image is uncompressed or uses a lossless compression.

First, you are not going to be able to populate the whole planet with plants and trees. Pick your camera angle. For close to medium distances from the camera use geometry/hair for the plants. For background, make a flat or curved patch and apply a decal of some plants and trees. When you render, set the Depth of Field so the background is blurred a little bit. Don't add stuff to areas that will not bee seen. Most of the time it's best to make each plant and each tree a separate model, then add add those plants in the chor.

almost 1000 views!

#324

I just googled pictures of pumpkins. You might get better results if you just paint a bump map for it. Most pumpkins don't seem to have a lot of depth in their contours. If you want a really bumpy pumpkin - peak the CPs that lay in a crevice (the horizontal splines running through the CPs, not the vertical ones.) Then set the bias for the horizontal splines running through the CPs on the RIDGES of the pumpkin to some very hight number. You'll have to experiment - 300 might be a good starting point. It will create wide smooth ridges with deep hairline crevices in the pumpkin.

Wannabe Pirates is up to #352

Not sure why you don't want to use Mark's face rig. It works really well. But if you want to use muscle based poses, just don't assign any of the face CPs to any of the face bones. Make a muscle pose for each thing you want to animate. Then make a new relationship for each face control where the translation or rotation of the control moves one or more of your facial pose sliders.

Great looking character Ken. It does have that clean Flash look.