robcat2075

I'm just bumping this so it will show on people's "New Posts" list in case they missed it previously.

Go to "Tools > Options" and activate at the gLobal-Tab "Resizeable filedialogs" and click ok. Now you should be able to resize the file dialog to be big enough to reveal the filename-field. I dont know why some have problems with the window being too small... most of us dont have to do that. See you *Fuchur* It is very possible that the "re-sizable File dialogs" option isn't in v15b... it IS in v15j+ which is another good reason to download the latest v15 installer and install it over your current v15b. Your CD will still enable running v15j+

It's as simple as pasting a downloaded Hopper JPG to a flat plane.... Great demo, Rodger.

OK, when you run the installer that is on that CD what version does it put on your computer? It will put a "Hash Inc" folder in your Program Files folder ("Program Files (x86)" if you are on a 64-bit OS) with a folder inside it name like "V13.0" I don't think Hash was selling anything that was online-activated three years ago. All you should need when you run that the first time is the serial number that was likely in the printed stuff you got with your CD.

This appears to be a variant of a bug that I thought was solved. I've reopened and added this to http://www.hash.com/reports/view.php?id=5992

Nice scenario Matt. At 11sec you don't have to vote on all of them for your votes to count, you can vote on just one if you want and it will count but it's gong to be the one they pick to serve up to you. If there's 100 entries and i only vote on 50, the next person who comes along will first get the 50 i didn't vote on so they get caught up on total views. You can skip an entry and not vote on it but they will keep bringing it back to you later until you vote on it. It would be very difficult for someone to get 50 friends to just vote on his particular entry. Beyond the limits of human patience I'd say.

Another observation... adding Squash and stretch to an individual bone in a rig... I would call that an advanced task. I would be very surprised if a typical user of any other program knew how to do that. Certainly most people called "animators" would not have a clue.

I can get that if I do your steps but if it's the perfect sphere you need its easier to position the mesh in relation to the vertical axis, select only one point and hit lathe.

Nancy's method has got to be the ultimate in quick and easy. One drag and they're gone.

Are you talking about visibility? Yep, just so you can unclutter the diagram pretty much. I believe enhanced Selection filters work on models also so you could use those to show any set you want in the PWS, Shift-select them and un-vis them in one swoop.

Not in one keystroke. but if you select the parent (1st click), hit asterisk (2nd click) that will expand its tree, then SHIFT-select the parent bone at the top of the tree (3rd click) and the last bone at the bottom of the tree(4th click) then hit Delete (1 keypress), that will delete them all. I don't think it would be possible to truly identify what you wanted to delete in only one keystroke. Nancy's method is better than mine.

Are you talking about visibility?

I've seen things like that and while it should be helpful I can't help but note that exceedingly few Maya users learn to rig even with that graphic aid. They don't seem to gain much more understanding of "why we rig" with it or without it. I think fewer Maya users get their own characters rigged than A:M users. Those charts look like lots of information is being presented in a clear format and yet it's only clear to the advanced user. A line from one bone to another that says "Rotation constraint" (instead of our current text listings) would speed me up quite a bit, but the user who doesn't grasp the purpose of the constraint isn't helped much. I think very very few people could look at a chart like that and predict what the rig will do.

Tell me more about what you don't understand. It might get covered in a tut eventually.

A lot of stuff in that TCM clip are probably flat cards painted and placed in the 3D environment. I didn't see any object in that that turned much in the camera view; we're always seeing them from one side. Genuine 3D models can be easily painted from a particular camera viewpoint in a 3D paint program like our own A:M Paint. I did a brief intro tut for A:M Paint here: http://www.hash.com/forums/index.php?s=&am...st&p=356734 My Punch thread shows how to use cylindrical mapping to easily wrap a complex shape with a bitmap that can be painted on. http://www.hash.com/forums/index.php?s=&am...st&p=317888

I hope to have a good explanation of "why we rig" in NewTAoA:M so that everyone can build a simple, functional rig from scratch and understand how it works and... learn enough from that so "installer" rigs make sense as the better option. I really think "installer" rigs are better and faster for most uses, but people seem to get stopped dead by them for a variety of reasons.

Can you describe the problem?

Thanks for all your tireless A:M work, Happy Birthday!

the painted look is almost exactly that... textures painted with a brush in a paint program. Someone who studied Hopper's style closely coudl apply that to digital painting.

I've found a clue... if the Shade is moved higher in the PWS than the window it will appear in either mode.

I dimly recall that the shadowing difference is a limitation of z-buffered lights. I might be wrong on that but I think Martin said something like that once. The work-around was to change the light to ray traced.

Can you show an example what what you are trying to get?

Edit: No need to try this anymore. I have ascertained enough to send a bug report. Thanks! load this PRJ, select the camera view (number pad 1), and select model you see there. Switch between Director mode and Skeletal Mode. Can you see the shade thru the window in both modes or just one? CantSeeThruGlass.prj What graphics card do you have?

Nope. But it cost me nothing to try!

I agree that the falling motion does not look right. Over in David Simmons' bouncing ball thread I made some notes on how to do proper falling motion that you may find useful. It's easy to do but you have to do it right or it isn't right. And on a follow up I talked about how to time any successive bounces.