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Posted (edited)

all i did was take a picture of my kitchen floor..... make a new material and change type to projection map. add the image..... and I can now use this on anything for example

 

the picture is kindoff dark. (edited) this is the latest picture in this thread

post-8-1108263314.jpg

Edited by Newbert_Zero
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Posted

Try scaling your object! When scaled up does the texture look realistic - tile it - do the tile join well?

 

Lest say:

I want to apply materials to a terrain model - picture won't work.

I have a large model and want some variation in the material - picture won't work.

 

Pictures have their place - so do decals, procedurral mats etc, etc, etc

 

BS

Posted

First of all, you really can't compare those. The grain on the right one is much bigger than the left. Also, we're not saying that your method can't be used, just that in some cases, like photorealism, a material would probably be a better choice... ;)

Posted

At first site it does, but for close up shots, you'd have to add some displacement..you could do this by making your pic a color decal, then making it Grayscale, and applying that as a displacement/bump

Posted

The bump mapping is not a bad idea. I like to see your examples with some bump mapping included.

 

As long as the scaling does not present a problem, I don't see why this could not work even for photorealism. You are using a photo as the source - that kind of makes it photorealistic already :D

 

Anyway, I'm going to play with it too - brick walls and so on could now be much easier.

Posted
im just showing that you can make pretty good looking textures with the click of the camera. and plus doesent this look photorelistic in a way?

I think it looks warm, terrific & believable - and I'm all for doing things the simplest way

Posted

A very easy way to get these textures is to go on google images and type in somthing like wood textures. u want somthing big that has a flat picture. then just put it on am and make a new material change type to projection map and then select your picture. walla you have a new material.

Posted

im just wondering why you would spend all the time making materials when you could just use a picture for a material

 

and besides im not aplying the image to the model. im making a material with the image.....

Posted

Okay... try to tile a image an map it on a complex object... now do it with a material...

 

Second: Zoom in on a decal... look at it... then zoom in on a material...

 

This is like the question: "Why is everyone using Illustrator? Photoshop can do it too..."

 

*Fuchur*

Posted

I think you will get the same effect with a map in a material...

You will always have the problem of appearing pixels if you zoom in...

 

*Fuchur*

Posted

Ah yes... procedural materials...

 

This is just me.. but... if I can photograph a piece of wood... and it looks realistic...

 

I just don't have the skills with materials in AM to make them look as good as I can with photoshop and a decal. Plus, more flexibility. I never got into doing those hideously complex nested materials.

 

Pixel size is not an issue... I just determine up front how big I will need it. I have never had any trouble with resolution. I always do the original creation in photoshop at a higher resolution than I will need... then I can resize as needed.

 

Keep this in mind as well... complex materials take more time to render... even if you don't zoom in.

 

Ultimately there is nothing more realistic than reality... so a photo of wood is going to trump the procedural every time... in most cases... sometimes they do look pretty good.

 

All of the surface detail on this is a direct scan from the actual object, I would not have been able to do it otherwise:

 

camera.jpg

 

Just a humble opinion.

 

Vernon "!" Zehr

Posted
I'm not saying that materials are the only way to go. Heck! I love textures! I'm hust saying that each has their own use in certain instances. ;)

Absolutely young Jedi...

 

I was recently instructed on how to make vertical grooves with a gridturb combiner material...

 

...WooHoo! Now I can put ridges on ALL of my knobs!

 

I guess my point was... I use to spend hours fiddleing with wood materials to get them right... now I just use different types of wood from a CD of high res photo textures... saves me a ton of time...

 

I mean... how many different types of trees are there anyway? And with all of the deforestation there is probably a lot less now... ;)

 

p.s. I don't use bumps much with my wood... I always sand it very smooth and use a wax finish or sometimes several coats of a polyeurathane varnish over a nice stain... depends on the final use. If it is going to be used outside I will put a sealer on it.

 

Vernon "Old Yanker Workshop" Zehr

Posted

Just to be fair, I have used procedural wood materials in the past.

 

Here is the very first procedural wood material I created... ALL BY MYSELF... from scratch...

 

It took me a while to get it lined up properly on the model since all the planks had different orientations... that is why I switched to using image decals for wood... and I don't build birdhouses any more...

 

bad_house.jpg

 

Vernon "Ouch! Damn hammer doesn't work!" Zehr

Posted

I am personally undecided on procedurals. They can be used very well, but I've heard arguments against the use of them.

I also think that tiled images don't cut it. Here're some really great cross-app (although she does favor Lightwave) texturing tutorials by Leigh van Der Byl, a really talented texture artist.

 

http://www.cgtalk.com/showthread.php?t=6648 - Part 1

http://www.cgtalk.com/showthread.php?t=7681 - Part 2 & Part 3

http://www.cgtalk.com/showthread.php?t=11053 - Part 4 (This one's a little bit harder to apply to A:M, but still interesting reading)

http://www.cgtalk.com/showthread.php?t=17631 - Part 5

http://www.cgtalk.com/showthread.php?t=74444 - Part 6 (This has a great reference sheet for refraction)

 

Even if you don't follow everything she says word for word, it's great reading and will really deepen your knowledge of texturing.

Posted

The major benefit I have found in using Procedural materials over Photo reference mats (or those creating strictly in photoshop) is that a procedural runs completely through the model. Thus, with wood specifically you get end-grain which matches the actual grain of the wood. As Vern's image clearly demonstrates. However, if you are not going to see the end-grain or not see it closely I go with a hi-res photo. I have actually been known to create a procedural material only to do a hi-res render and turn it into a color map to save on render times.

 

J

Posted
The major benefit I have found in using Procedural materials over Photo reference mats (or those creating strictly in photoshop) is that a procedural runs completely through the model. Thus, with wood specifically you get end-grain which matches the actual grain of the wood. As Vern's image clearly demonstrates.

 

 

You can do the same with hand-painted textures, I'm not sure I see your point...

 

It's possible I'm missing what you're speaking of, but I don't see anything that couldn't be done with hand painted textures.

 

Through the use of Bump, Displacement, and Color you can achieve what you describe. Procedurals can only use the same tools as hand painted textures... Procedurals are just not painted, but essentially created by layering turbulences to create color (and many times bump) maps.

Posted

Actually, the wood end grain issue is a bit of pain with hand painted textures.

 

It is a little tricky if you do a close up and the grains don't "match".

 

Since most wood projects hide the end grain any way... doesn't come up that much.

 

Vernon "!" Zehr

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