BATMOBILE PROJECT

[oakchas]

T,

 

Scale of scoop to hood looks much better.

 

There are some areas around the nostril we're gonna have to fix on yours. And there are other problems too.

 

 

Look at the pic you just posted above, of the car in primer. Look in front of Robin's windshield. The brow for the turn signal isn't raised there, its sheetmetal is on the same plane as the hood.

 

Believe me, I'm still working on my version. Had to take the pump and motor out of my dishwasher today... I wish real life would just quit interfering!

 

Here's a reversed shot from Rodger's link, cropped to the hood and mirrored.

[attachmentid=17423]

 

Other than my poking fun at the body work, I can see the problems with ours.

 

Here's where I'm at:

[attachmentid=17424]

 

I'm going to try another approach. This is close, but just won't "make it".

[T-Dogg]

I did a bit more tweaking. I'm not sure what else needs to be done to it other than creating an edge along the left side and back. Any more suggestions?

 

[attachmentid=17434]

 

I nearly forgot to mention that I also fixed another problem I was having.

 

[attachmentid=17436]

[oakchas]

Lookin' Good T...

 

Put a point on the nose and your hood is very close...

 

Show a birds eye view with wire.

[T-Dogg]

Actually, Charles, I spotted a major flaw. Here's the wrong mesh:

 

[attachmentid=17439]

 

And here it is corrected:

 

[attachmentid=17440]

 

This was a clear case of looking at something and still not seeing it... or not seeing the forest for the trees, as the saying goes. I noticed in the pictures that bottom of the hood extended past the bend that goes over the signal light, and I even fixed that part just recently, as you can see in that top picture. For some reason it didn't register to me that the extended part in question came down all the way to the front of the hood! It's embarrassing to think about how much time I wasted fixing that little inside corner... and the whole time I didn't even need it!!!

 

Also, you asked for wires, so here they are.

 

[attachmentid=17442]

 

I don't think it's perfect, but I am pretty happy with it now.

[oakchas]

T,

 

It looks much better! You are almost there, and I'm still futzin' with mine.

 

Here's what would make it the "cats pajamas"

 

[attachmentid=17443]

 

Have you tried a copy/flip/attach yet?

 

Be sure to save what you've got before you do!

 

But I gotta say, It's really gettin there... the rest should be a lot easier.

[T-Dogg]

I tried to do the changes you mentioned. I even did a copy/flip/attach just to see what it looked like as a complete hood. See if this is more to your liking.

 

[attachmentid=17446]

[oakchas]

Yee Haaa! yep, you've nearly got it... And I'm a mile behind!

 

You're gonna hafta narrow the "beak" a bit, I think... I'm not certain of that... porcelain might help for the rest of the kinks

 

If you look here, you'll see what I mean about the ramp and "shelf" inside the "nostril" opening

 

[attachmentid=17393]

 

Man, you're doin great... I know it's been a struggle. Like I said, I'm a mile behind. But I'm trying to figure out an easier way, and there may not be one.

[T-Dogg]

I raised that part in front of the scoop like you pointed out. I also narrowed the "beak" like you had mentioned. Upon closer inspection of that picture you posted, I got the feeling that the area between the hood and the beak might actually be empty. If you look closely you can see there are reflections on the hood directly under the beak piece. So I changed it yet again, and this is what I came up with:

 

[attachmentid=17466][attachmentid=17467]

 

I think I might need to go back and widen the beak some where it joins the scoop. Also, I noticed after attaching the other half, that I might have to go in and raise the CPs along the centerline to round things back out. Adding the other side seems like it might have flattened things out a little.

 

What do you think?

[oakchas]

[attachmentid=17472]

 

But otherwise, lookin' great.

 

I should have my version tomorrow, maybe friday. I hope.

[T-Dogg]

Changed it back to closed. For some reason, it took me a lot longer to figure out how to close it back up than it did to open it in the first place.

 

I don't know what else to do with the hood now, so I am going to start working on the fender. Let me know what else you think should be done to the hood.

 

Here is what it looks like now:

 

[attachmentid=17557][attachmentid=17558]

[oakchas]

That looks good for now T, I've been with you in spirit if not in reality... Tried several shortcuts to make the scoop "happen."

 

Here's what I tried:

 

Tried the grid wizard, removing some of the squares and replacing with a circle, then rotating the circle 90­° in the x axis. It almost works.

 

Tried making a 12 point circle bringing center points forward... nope...

 

Went to Colin Freemans' Cooper tute on a human face... That's the closest. And where I'm at now.

 

Now, I've only been futzin' with it in spare moments. And, I haven't had many.

 

Replaced a dishwasher, one component at a time. (then ended up buyin a new dishwasher and installed that!)

 

2 Sick dogs at home, too. Dogs are worse than children, they won't just keep a pail by the bed when they're sick. And that had nothing to do with the skunk "strike" earlier in this adventure. Summer in the country, ahhhh!

 

At the end of the day, I was starting to hope for the Make Batmobile button.

 

See ya tomorrow. I'm at work now.

[T-Dogg]

I started the fender... but just like when I started the hood, I don't think it looks right. It's really hard for me to figure these parts out.

 

[attachmentid=17584]

[oakchas]

T,

 

See if this helps you visualize what you need. There may be hooks where there shouldn't be, but I'm working with MS paint here... So it's kinda like using a stick in the sand....

 

[attachmentid=17596]

[T-Dogg]

That picture gave me a very good reference. Thank you.

 

I did a lot more modelling on the fender. It looks much better now. What do you think?

 

[attachmentid=17629][attachmentid=17630]

 

Here it is combined with the hood. I think it's looking pretty good so far.

 

[attachmentid=17631][attachmentid=17632]

[attachmentid=17633][attachmentid=17634]

 

Any comments would be appreciated. Thanks!

[prometheus999]

This is looking really good. I don't suppose you're going to try making Batman and Robin to drive around in it?

[oakchas]

TEEEE! WOW!

 

Lookin' Great! You don't need any help, I should be askin' for yours...

 

You asked for a few comments, here's what I saw right off. But really, you're killin me here, you're doin' great!

[attachmentid=17635]

let me study the pix on the site a bit more.

[agep]

This looks like a fun and challenging project. Nice progression so far

[T-Dogg]

This is looking really good. I don't suppose you're going to try making Batman and Robin to drive around in it?

 

I would certainly like to make them. Perhaps by the time I finish their car I will have become a good enough spline modeller to be able to do it. I definitely want to learn character modelling and rigging in A:M, so the Dynamic Duo might be a great place to start.

 

 

This looks like a fun and challenging project. Nice progression so far

 

Thank you! It has definitely been fun and challenging, and also sometimes frustrating! I have learned a lot so far though, and we are not even halfway finished. It was really great for Chas to take me under his wing like this and help a new guy out. I can't stress enough how great the community here at Hash.com has been.

[oakchas]

I finally found the answer to the hood... (after discarding 3 models that I tweaked til kingdom come) at least I'm pretty sure. Stay tuned, I should be able to post on Monday or Tuesday. Working all weekend

[Viper GTX2.0]

Nice work. Keep up the good work. Cant wait to see the finished car.

[oakchas]

T,

 

I haven't abandoned you... I been bustin hump on the hood... here's the scoop... i think I got it... more details, wires etc... tomorrow.

 

[attachmentid=17745]

[oakchas]

that was just a screen cap of the model window.

 

Here's where I got the information on the "cerise" strip color :cerise color

 

and here's the comparison to other colors:

[attachmentid=17750]

[oakchas]

here's the hood model so far... still needs a bit of tweaking... but I am really close.

 

sheesh... I've used s. gross' smooth plugin and installed a couple three 5 pointers... and it still isn't just how I want it.

 

Any who, here's the mdl file:[attachmentid=17778].. No CFA done yet, permanently. the last post of a CFA with color was just a test.

hood.zip

[Woloshyniuk]

the shape is really good but it still has a few little bumps and creases to smooth out.

[T-Dogg]

Charles,

 

Sorry I haven't posted anything here in a while. I have been too busy with this math equation:

 

(Heat + Humidity) x Sinus Infection = Pure Misery

 

The anitbiotics are finally starting to kick in, so I am feeling somewhat better. Hopefully I'll make some progress on it this week. The front is proving to be a tricky thing to model. I've been reading some of David Rogers' new A:M book, and hopefully I can put the things I've learned to good use.

[Eric2575]

Keep up the good work fellows! This version of the Batmobile has always been a favorite of mine. Looking good.

[oakchas]

With an eye to seeing how I'm progressing on the hood, I've copied R. Reynold's post pic from before, done a screencap of the hood model, cropped it and overlayed it on the pic with some transparency...here is the result, along with shaded wires, shaded alone and the model so far as a zip file.

 

[attachmentid=17971][attachmentid=17972]

[attachmentid=17973]

 

It is getting closer, but is requiring alot of smoothing/tweaking... If anyone sees problems that may be easy to correct, I'd appreciate input. To me, It looks like perhaps I have too much of an upward angle on the hood, as the scoop is somewhat taller over the middle than the real BM. I realize I have to lower the height of the "beak" that comes out of the scoop. And obviously smooth some patches. It really is a bit like doing hammer and dolly work on real sheet metal. And the kinks that show up in the model also appear on the real deal....

 

Here's todays model file:

[attachmentid=17974]

 

I wish there were a way (and perhaps there is???) to have a roto in birdseye view, where the model can be turned/scaled to match the roto, but where the roto itself doesn't move... I think I know that focal length of the real life camera shot might not make this a terribly accurate method... but it would be a boon to checking work.

hood07506.zip

[Dhar]

I wish there were a way (and perhaps there is???) to have a roto in birdseye view, where the model can be turned/scaled to match the roto, but where the roto itself doesn't move... I think I know that focal length of the real life camera shot might not make this a terribly accurate method... but it would be a boon to checking work.

 

What if you move the model (instead of the view) to match the 3/4 profile roto?

 

This is the most fascinating and intriguing WIP I've ever seen. Keep up the good work.

[oakchas]

What if you move the model (instead of the view) to match the 3/4 profile roto?

 

 

Well, I'm not certain about this, though I thought of doing it. Here's what I see as a problem... you load a 3/4 bidseye roto in the front view and turn the model to match. how much in each axis did you turn it? so that you can restore it to the orignal front view.

 

the work around is, of course, to save the model before moving it. but it gives me the heebies just because it might get "lost" into the corrupted model circular file somehow.

[T-Dogg]

Sorry I haven't posted anything in a while. After recovering from being sick, I kind of lost my modelling groove. This morning I sat down and tried again while I listened to a CD of Puffy AmiYumi. (Who, incidentally, I am going to go see in concert in Cincinnati this Friday night! ) [attachmentid=18184]

 

I think I finally made some progress! I have been struggling a great deal with getting the front to look right. I initially tried to take my fender and kind of sweep the edge around to make the front. I don't know if I am explaining it right. Anyway, it doesn't matter, because it didn't work. Today I tried a new approach. I drew the trim around the grill firs and extruded it out and back. Then I tweaked it and attached it to my fender, adding splines as necessary.

 

It isn't completely finished yet, but here is what I wound up with:

 

[attachmentid=18179][attachmentid=18180]

[attachmentid=18181][attachmentid=18182]

 

As always, let me know what you think and give me some pointers on how I can make it better.

 

EDIT: I just did a check of how it looks all put together so far, and I thought I'd share the pictures:

 

[attachmentid=18192][attachmentid=18193][attachmentid=18194]

[oakchas]

T,

 

Looks like you got quite a bit done over the last couple of days! glad to see you back at it.

 

Now, don't take the following to harshly, please. You've gotten farther than I have, so I have no room to talk. But, if I had the room, this is what I would point out.

[attachmentid=18196]

 

The reason I ask about porcelain, is that the area looks a bit too rounded.

 

The peaky areas that I pointed out before in the fender well area (back a few posts) look as though they've been smoothed over with bondo (too much of it, averaging the curves which is what porcelain does).

 

T, I gotta say, you are doing really well... I've said it before, I should be asking you for help. Yours definitely looks like the batmobile... Mine looks like a hood in progress.

 

Keep it up.

[T-Dogg]

Charles,

 

You're right about the porcelin. I had added it earlier to check for flipped 5-point patches (of which I had several! ) and forgotten about it. Next time I'll post some renders without it.

 

 

I'd also noticed the part between the grills was too flat, but I just hadn't got around to fixing it yet.

 

I'll try to bring the ridge around the front more as well.

 

I still need to add some thickness around several of the edges, too.

 

Other than that, I've went back and removed several unnecessary splines and tried to open up some of the areas where I had splines too close together.

 

There are several areas where I tried to peak my control points, but it seemed to create as many problems afor me as it solved. I've also tried to avoid messing with the bias handles as much as possible so far. I adjusted a few, but then as I made changes to the mesh, having those handles adjusted caused me problems. I ended up re-zeroing them. I think it will be best for me to just leave the bias handles alone until all the splines are in place. By adding in some extra splines and control points, I'm trying my best to just avoid messing with the bias altogether. My biggest reason for adjusting bias handles will probably be to smooth out the humps caused by sharp curves in the splines.

 

I've learned a lot so far, but it seems like I am still doing a lot of things wrong. I think by the end of this project I should be a pretty decent modeller, though.

[oakchas]

but it seems like I am still doing a lot of things wrong

 

Well, in many ways it's better to learn by trial and error... we really learn what we're doing wrong, and can see why we should do it differently.... You are doing great, and you're right, by the time we've worked through this... we'll both be better modellers

[T-Dogg]

I did a bit of tweaking and removed the porcelain. What do you think of it now?

 

[attachmentid=18313][attachmentid=18314]

[attachmentid=18315][attachmentid=18316]

[oakchas]

it's looking great... I just read Erics thread about the saleen.... Every time he touches it it gets smoother.. and he's able to cut patch count.

 

You're doing a great job T, Keep it up.. I'll catch up somehow... maybe sleep is overrated?

[Eric2575]

I keep watching your guys posts here. Tweaking can get tedious and it's slow progress, but that's how you get a beautiful end product. Your progress has taken a lot of work, keep it up - nice job.

 

Eric

[T-Dogg]

Charles,

 

As a guy who works nights, let me tell you this: Sleep is definitely NOT overrated!!!

 

At least I don't think it is.... from what little I can remember about sleep.

 

I just checked out that saleen thread you mentioned. Kinda makes an unskilled modeller like me feel inadequate. But I ain't giving up just yet! For every new section I try to model, I run into about 847 new problems. By the time I learn how to fix all of those, I should be pretty darn good, right?

 

I haven't got anything new to show right now. I still haven't fully recovered from the Puffy AmiYumi concert. Those gals rocked!!! Plus, I got their new CD at the show before it's official release.... so now I have someting new to listen to while I get back to modelling!!! Life is good.

[T-Dogg]

Charles,

 

Ok, just a bit of quick, sloppy work, but at least it's some form of progress, right? Basically, all I did was take the spline at the edge of the front fender and extrude it back a bunch of times. Then I went back and shaped it as best I could to match the side rotoscope and added in the rear wheel well.

 

I'm not sure what the best way is to do the tailfin. I'm having problems with the splines where the tailfin joins the body. As usual, I ask for your advice my sensei of splinage. What should I do?

 

[attachmentid=18445][attachmentid=18446]

[oakchas]

sensei of splinage

 

Bwahahahah! that makes me laugh...

 

but before I can see what's wrong with splines... gimme a wireframe!

[T-Dogg]

Charles,

 

Here's the wires you asked for.

 

[attachmentid=18496][attachmentid=18497]

 

I know I need to round out the side a lot more. I think my biggest concern right now is figuring out the best way to do the area where the tailfin joins the main body. I have 2 splines that are extremely close together there. I think I will move one down and use that spline to round out the side. If I do that, I will be able to delete that spline I added into the back for that same purpose.

 

What do you think?

[Eric2575]

T-Dogg,

 

the wireframe isn't very clear about what is going on with those two close splines, but you can really trim down the splines going vertically down the car to get a smoother look. Also, toward the front of the car, it looks like you have a spline going horizontally and vertically. I'd cut that spline and make two separate splines to avoid problems later.

 

Why are those two splines so close together? If they make up the fin, shouldn't they be even farther apart? Like I said, it's a little hard to tell.

 

You're doing a really good job, keep it up. Can't wait to see the finished product. Maybe you can get together with that guy who made the Batman model to create a cool render together?

[T-Dogg]

Here are some new pictures after a bit of adjusting. It's hard to tell much from them. Basically I have just started roughing in the trunk area. I still need to finish the tailfin and smooth things out. Then I can start trying to join it all together somehow.

 

Thanks for the advice, Eric. I did delete a few of the vertical splines.

 

Is there a way to actually render wireframes in A:M? I have been taking screenshots to show mine, but that results in a much smaller picture.

 

[attachmentid=18519][attachmentid=18520]

[attachmentid=18521][attachmentid=18522]

[Neu_Type]

Is there a way to actually render wireframes in A:M? I have been taking screenshots to show mine, but that results in a much smaller picture.

 

 

When you choose to render to file, click on the options tab and change the quality

 

You should be able to choose Final, wireframe, shaded, shaded with wireframe, and default...

 

Wonderful work, I look forward to seeing more... : )

[T-Dogg]

 

When you choose to render to file, click on the options tab and change the quality

 

You should be able to choose Final, wireframe, shaded, shaded with wireframe, and default...

 

Doh!!! How could I have missed that??? For some reason I kept looking in the toon render settings... I dunno why. Anyway, thanks so much for helping me out, Neu_Type!

 

And since I know how to do it now, here are some pictures of my latest progress with the wireframes showing.

 

[attachmentid=18537][attachmentid=18538]

[attachmentid=18539][attachmentid=18540]

 

As always, any comments are welcome.

[oakchas]

T,

 

Why, that looks like the Batmobile! It's coming along great....

 

What's the patch count? I think you'll find that you can eliminate a few splines and still get the contours well defined. On the body now, tweaking is the thing to do.

 

I can't tell you how well you're doing... It's pretty obvious, you're doing fine. Keep it up...

 

Remember, there are a ton of details inside, and on the top, that are gonna take alot of splinage and patches... That's why I asked before how many patches. Not that A:M won't handle it... but that it will render more quickly with fewer calculations.

 

Keep going, man... IT IS REALLY LOOKING GOOD!

[T-Dogg]

Where does it show the patch count? I have looked everywhere.

[Eric2575]

Right click in the modeling window and select "Info" from the menu.

[T-Dogg]

Thanks Eric!!!!

 

Thus far, the complete model after putting both sides together is 2147 patches. Is that too much at this stage? I know there is still a ton of stuff that needs to be added.

[oakchas]

nah, not too many. After all Agep's Bismack has 131,000 patches... But he's assembling in the chor not in a model window.

 

Just encouraging you to stay as lean as you can.... I've seen somebody mention difficulties over 6000 patches... and that could be totally unrelated.

[pixelmech]

Just want to chime in and say that's looking really good guys. Having modeled the Mach 5, I know how tricky it is to do a car and get it to look right. Especially one with so much character. Looking forward to the final product!

 

Tom