heyvern

Thought some of you might like to see some more detail in my contest entry. Dandy DNA Mechanical Image contest entry. JPEG format. 2000x1366px 2mb Please check out the bubbles on the surface of the goop! That is my favorite part of the whole image! Goop bag detail Just a decal but it looks pretty goopy. I bet that stuff stinks! Anyone who has seen previous bags of goop know that I have been trying to use booleans to cut away the goop but leave the bag. This worked great. I used that technique on the two bags in the box. However I was not 100% satisfied with the final results. I wanted to simplify my project and add more detail to the surface on the two bags up front. I used a copy of the booleaned bags and added splines to the goop that lined up with the cutter and snipped and connected... making a complete goop shape. Of course this removes any potential for animating or changing the level of goop in the bag... I would go back to the boolean version for that. It is totally acceptable in my opinion... I just wanted more bang for the image contest and make it easier to decal. Decaling a boolean is doable... just tricky. You need to render the cut surface to use as a decal template. then decal the cutter surface. Booleans transfer materials and decals onto the surface being cut. My trouble was that I moved my cutter all over the place in an action... so I had to decal in the action to get it lined up... I did it once and decided I would prefer a solid goop shape without a boolean for the other two bags. I also couldn't get a nice "edge". Where the goop hits the bag... it is this absolutely razor sharp edge completely flat... I wanted to slightly curve the edge to catch a highlight. ------------------------------ The research I did was a lot of fun. Allthough the "science" is not 100% accurate... it is pretty close. The electronic multipipette in the foreground is waaaay off. It should be as wide as the row of 8 large pipette tips in the blue holder. Oh well. I am missing some components like a centrifuge, autoclave.... a few other items.... I figure those things are "still in the box". Fascinating fact! You could do DNA sequenceing and PCR DNA "Cloning" in your kitchen with your kids on a rainy saturday afternoon. You will need to purchase a few things from a "specialty" shop... looks pretty straight forward. I found images of highschool kids creating DNA "gels" of their own DNA in a simple classroom using cobled together gizmos hooked up to batteries... very low tech. DNA cloning seems pretty easy as well. You just need to get the temperatures correct and it can take a long time... the complex machines the big labs use cut the time down considerably. You do not need complex equipement. Kind of freaked me out. I found a web site that described in painful detail the entire process of extracting plant DNA to be inserted or added to other plant DNA... lots of tech stuff I didn't grok... but still like putting together furniture from Ikea. I predict the Dandy DNA for kids will exist in 20-50 years. The biggest problem are the extremely flammable and toxic chemicals involved. There are new ones now that are completely non toxic and much safer to work with... cost more of course. Study hard. The final exam will be 50% of your grade.... Vernon "ActivoMoto Toys CEO" Zehr

Sorry Pengy! I haven't forgotten about that material I created. I will post it very soon. Got busy with something else... and writing all of these posts takes so much of my free time! As for the seams on the leather... Man... in a perfect world... doing it with geometry would be great... and not as scary as you might think. It would mean of course breaking apart the helmet and extruding some extra splinage and folding it over... or... You could "reorganize" the splinage so you have at least 3 or 5 splines close together on a seam and then "bump" the middle one down. Use a bump map to accentuate it... ...okay that does sound scary... I did something a tiny bit similar in an image contest a few years back... the theme was toys 2001: http://www.hash.com/imagecontest/Sept01/19.jpg I used a bump and displacement map for the seams. the fabric was a texture... I... uh... I scanned the actual doll on a scanner by rolling it as the light moved along the glass. It worked quite well. The tricky thing with leather is that it is very thick and really needs to have the geometry altered to look "photorealistic". I suppose you have seen David Walkers winning entry for the mechanical contest? Man now that is nice leather... that creep... just kidding Dave! If you have enough patches (I think you do) try using a displacement map along with the bump map. This works very well. Just a subtle displacement with finer detail in the bump. You really just need a suggestion of a raised area. Also, to make it look even better, you should have a different color or wear pattern on the seams since they would get "rubbed" more. Here is the displacement map I used for the doll image: And this is the bump map: Vernon "!" Zehr

...uh... I did? I didn't think I did... did I really say that? John... I didn't mean that. I really didn't. In my Happy Bear childrens story I kill a rabbit... natural causes of course... p.s. I know your character only feinted of course. MM, you seriously misinterpreted my post... somehow... Vernon "Oh boy..." Zehr

I think it is great! Great story.. great concept... On that note however I will indulge in "constructive criticism" which you can have for free! Today only! Only two things... 1) the grey painting... I got it... but... For a moment I wasn't sure if you had maybe planned to add another painting decal... or ... if it didn't render properly... obviously this would only be imagined by someone familiar with 3D stuff. A suggestion... Instead of just a flat gray... make it look flat gray.. but have some brush textures... hard to explain... if you took flat gray paint... over a period of days or weeks... and "painted" a totally blank painting... it would have characteristics of a painting... maybe just ever so slightly "lighter" feathering around the edges... or brush stroke darks and lights... very very subtle but it would give a stronger clue it was intentional and not something "missing". 2) Last scene... I mentioned this before... kick me for bringing it up again... but... I would like to see a cross fade... from the painting to the face or visa versa... something NOT subtle... a blatant one for one cross fade that shows exactly how the painting looks like the character. This is just my humble opinion! You almost got it at the end but the painting was in a wide shot and there was a cut to the close up/fade in of the unconcious character... These two things are minor. I tend to watch it as a whole and don't really notice any "funny" floating animation. If the story and idea was total crap I would probably notice that stuff more. Sort of like only seeing mistakes in Toy Story after watching it 50 bazillion times. Too caught up in the story to notice. Vernon "!" Zehr

You see? You see!? Another person who needs an AM feature that activates a coffee maker via an ethernet connection whenever a render to file will take longer than a predetermined length of time (mine would be set at 1 minute... but that's just me). I don't think there is any other 3D application with this feature. p.s. By the way... excelent animation. I am looking forward to the completion of your project... WAWA has 64 oz. coffee mugs now... that's a whole pot of coffee in a easy to carry insulated mug. Vernon "!" Zehr

God bless you Paul! I don't think I want to see my likeness in an animation contest entry with the Her model from the CD doing... stuff... with Homer Simpson... in front of an audience... (worse case scenerio obviously). Granted, it could be more fun then I have ever experienced in real life but it might be disturbing... and could possibly hurt my reputation.... ...Okay! Stop laughing! It would be disturbing though. Vernon "!" Zehr

I have never worn white shoes with black spandex.... black ANYTHING in my entire life.... I would never wear shoes in that style of any color... In college I did wear white converse sneakers and Vans.... but I always airbrushed them with wierd animal skins and stuff. Other than that... looks just like me... I won't make it to Europe any time soon though. Vernon "Am I really that fat?" Zehr

Paul, It is absolutely amazing how accurate your portrayal of me is. Have you ever actually met me? Did we meet in San Diego? Granted, I never wear spandex... as you can clearly see from these fanciful illustrations, the results would be tragic... but still... the resemblence is uncanny... ...which is sad now that I look at them some more... MAN! I need to stop eating all those doughnuts... Could there be an alternate version of my costume? All in black... I wear a lot of black... makes me look thinner and cooler... Vernon "Z-Man" Zehr

Patch images!!! I never ever knew you could do that with patch images... fascinating... Thanks Jimbo! The Jim man... the Jimbolator... makin' patches... pullin' splines... talkin with the Vernolator... givin' out tips for the Zehr man... makin' copies... Vernon "Shut me up already!" Zehr

Could you elaborate on this just a teeny bit? I have never used this image technique because I never got good results and didn't like the lack of control. How exactly can you rotate these image patches? Is this something new in v11 with the UV editor? Vernon "!" Zehr

You are the MAN! Nice job so far... there has been a discussion in another thread about materials (procedural textures) vs. decals... I am glad I am not the only one who sticks odd things in a scanner! Is the shirt a material or a scan? I'm guessing material... it has that kind of look but I could be wrong. Just be careful... when you put her on the scanner make sure she doesn't sit on it too hard... could break the glass... Nice...round... boobies... very... tight... sweater... just had to mention it. ... I need to get out more.... Vernon "!" Zehr

Very nice... uh... screenshot... um... er... maybe if you made it bigger. ----------------- Okay! There it is! hah! I like it. I think the bright specular highlight from the lamp is blowing things out a bit. It looks great from about 1 quarter in or a 3rd from the left. The fade of the light from that point to the right looks very nice. Lowering the intensity of the lamp would also give more focus to the ballerina in the box. Softening the falloff of the spotlight on her as well would make it look less "intentional" if you follow me. Is the lamp casting a yellow color or is that the specular color? I think that is what is hitting me. I would like to see just a subtle detail of texture on the macrame doily... you don't have to weave splines or use cloth... just something to soften the look of it.... it needs more smaller holes.. Sorry if I seem overly harsh. Someone mentioned somewhere that we are too nice overall in our critiques in the WIP section. I like it... but if that was all I said... no one learns anything! Vernon "Smart a**" Zehr

Do one with motion blur! Do one with motion blur! Pleeeeease! It really needs motion blur... Very funny. I step framed through it and love that look on his face just as he gets hit. Happens so fast you never see it... maybe subconciously. Vernon "!" Zehr

Didn't spend to much time on it... it started coming back to me why I use image decals for this stuff! So much more control. Plus it takes much longer to render than decals with the same result. Anyway here is my quick test. I have two materials, one for bump, and a modified one for color. I used a kind of complicated material with several levels of cellturb combiners. I have an overall turb combiner (I forget which one I used) at the top level scaled very large that sort of "blends" two (actually four) slightly different sets of cellturb combiners to create a less regualar pattern. That is one of the things about materials I don't like... very hard to put non fake looking subtle variations in the texture without a lot of effort. I mixed two sets of cellturb/threshhold to get the wrinkles. I then nested a cellturb/webbed in reverse in one of those combiners to get the pimply bumps on the skin. So the wrinkles and bumpies are in the same bump material. There is pretty subtle detail in the bump which is hard to see in this image. I am not very experienced with nested materials, and just couldn't get those fine multiple wrinkle lines characteristic of leather. You know... the lines that are like "sketchy" right next to each other. Well... at least not so I was satisfied... I get to obsesive about realism with these things. Normally I could do this in photoshop much faster... and better. The inset is not a larger render... I cheated and just scaled up a section in photoshop. The main render took 18 minutes (slow machine)... I didn't feel like doing another one. I will post the material if you would like it. Need to get some sleepy sleep. Vernon "!" Zehr

My suggestion would be to add some of those "lined groove" things as a bump. These are not exactly wrinkles but those subtle patterned "grooves" that are characteristic of leather. I would use that cell turb thingy, just as a bump. a reverse bump. Use black and white as the two attributes and play around with the settings. These lines would go "in" to the surface and be very subtle. I am fascinated with this and just might give it a go myself just for fun. Vernon "!" Zehr

Actually, the wood end grain issue is a bit of pain with hand painted textures. It is a little tricky if you do a close up and the grains don't "match". Since most wood projects hide the end grain any way... doesn't come up that much. Vernon "!" Zehr

Put it on a scanner! You get more overall lighting on a scanner plus you can get some really high resolution images. I rolled a tomato on a scanner once... keep some paper towels handy. Good luck with the leather material Pengy. Vernon "!" Zehr

Well... Closer detail would be needed to make a good critique. If however you wouldn't see it any closer than this... I would have to say it doesn't look much like leather yet. If it were me... I would probably use an image decal rather than a material especially if you want it to look worn and used. With an image you could create the wear patterns and bump map from the texture. You could probably find some photos of leather on the web, or you could even photograph some if you have a digital camera. This is just my opinion. If you like how the material works than go for it. Does need some more specularity and a slight bump. You may want to also use the same bump map and modify it for specularity... to break up the highlight as it does on real leather. Vernon "!" Zehr

Uh... hmm... Wow... Colin... you... er... you went all out on this one! I guess if you win now we know it really is a popularity contest. Could we see a wireframe of the models? I would like to see how many splines you used to create... those... splines. Did you use multipass? Using radiosity might improve the realism. Vernon "?" Zehr

Just to be fair, I have used procedural wood materials in the past. Here is the very first procedural wood material I created... ALL BY MYSELF... from scratch... It took me a while to get it lined up properly on the model since all the planks had different orientations... that is why I switched to using image decals for wood... and I don't build birdhouses any more... Vernon "Ouch! Damn hammer doesn't work!" Zehr

Absolutely young Jedi... I was recently instructed on how to make vertical grooves with a gridturb combiner material... ...WooHoo! Now I can put ridges on ALL of my knobs! I guess my point was... I use to spend hours fiddleing with wood materials to get them right... now I just use different types of wood from a CD of high res photo textures... saves me a ton of time... I mean... how many different types of trees are there anyway? And with all of the deforestation there is probably a lot less now... p.s. I don't use bumps much with my wood... I always sand it very smooth and use a wax finish or sometimes several coats of a polyeurathane varnish over a nice stain... depends on the final use. If it is going to be used outside I will put a sealer on it. Vernon "Old Yanker Workshop" Zehr

It looks like a Ford Torus... I am just guessing... I especially like that it has windshield wipers... it's raining here now and I need some new ones. Vernon "Your door is ajar" Zehr

Ah yes... procedural materials... This is just me.. but... if I can photograph a piece of wood... and it looks realistic... I just don't have the skills with materials in AM to make them look as good as I can with photoshop and a decal. Plus, more flexibility. I never got into doing those hideously complex nested materials. Pixel size is not an issue... I just determine up front how big I will need it. I have never had any trouble with resolution. I always do the original creation in photoshop at a higher resolution than I will need... then I can resize as needed. Keep this in mind as well... complex materials take more time to render... even if you don't zoom in. Ultimately there is nothing more realistic than reality... so a photo of wood is going to trump the procedural every time... in most cases... sometimes they do look pretty good. All of the surface detail on this is a direct scan from the actual object, I would not have been able to do it otherwise: Just a humble opinion. Vernon "!" Zehr

Like I said only two choices... 1) It doesn't work 2) I am an idiot... or ... I did something goofy I find for myself at least, that number 2 is more likely to be correct 4 out of 5 times! The fifth time I am just lying to myself... Vernon "It doesn't work!" Zehr

You did something goofy there... It should work the same as previous but with the fade. Make sure you didn't accidentally change a setting somewhere.... or maybe you have an extra image in a decal set for color or something. If you have a version saved previous to the "mistake" version, start again and make sure it works the way you want. The key is to find where the change occured. Rather than mistakenly thinking it "doesn't work" or "I am an idiot" (that's my motto when things don't work) try to figure out what happened between the two versions. Go back to the original decal image file and make sure you didn't inadvertently change it when you added the alpha. Make sure you have the decal assigned as diffuse and not some other attribute... (you said bump in the last post... the first post said diffuse map?). If you changed the strength of one image in a decal it will have no effect on the others. If you lower the bump value it will not effect color... so something wierd is happening. I think you have the bump assigned as color by mistake. So... on top of the color decal image already there makes it appear "black"... color images can be cummulative in a decal. Vernon "!" Zehr