First 3D Print

[robcat2075]

I got a 3D resin printer.

My first print is the teapot from the Three Teapots Benchmark

 

As it is printed on the build plate. This took one hour to print. At this scale the walls are paper thin.

 

After curing and removing the supports:

 

[Roger]

Cool!  Are you planning any special projects with it?  

[robcat2075]

1 hour ago, Roger said:

Cool!  Are you planning any special projects with it?  

Yes, I still have contest medals to make!

[robcat2075]

Layer lines can be observed on shallow slopes. These are 0.1mm layers. I think they can be made smaller in exchange for longer printing time.

The 3D print is pretty good but consider that the penny has finer details than this 3D print could show.

[Roger]

Is there any kind of chemical treatment that can eliminate or reduce the lines?   You probably can't really see it unless you are right up on it, though. 

[robcat2075]

37 minutes ago, Roger said:

Is there any kind of chemical treatment that can eliminate or reduce the lines?   You probably can't really see it unless you are right up on it, though. 

Maybe. But the last thing I need is more chemicals for this.

[Roger]

1 minute ago, robcat2075 said:

Maybe. But the last thing I need is more chemicals for this.

True.  Looking at the first 3 photos, the model looks pretty smooth.  You can really only see the lines when you are zoomed way in. 

[Tom]

Cool!!....resin printing is a bit tricky with all the chemicals but if anyone can do it right...it is Rob!

My local public library has a 3d printer that I have used for simple printing dice.however I want to print some more complicated things which brings up a question. 

What happens when you have a 3d model sitting on top of (but not connected to)  another 3D object (see attached). It is a sphere just sitting on top of a cube.

If that is exported as an STL file, will it print it like a sphere on top of the cube or will the fact that they are not connected with splines confuse the printing software?

 

Thanks for any clarifications!

Tom

[robcat2075]

 

1 hour ago, Tom said:

What happens when you have a 3d model sitting on top of (but not connected to)  another 3D object (see attached). It is a sphere just sitting on top of a cube.

If that is exported as an STL file, will it print it like a sphere on top of the cube or will the fact that they are not connected with splines confuse the printing software?

Hi Tom,

There has to be continuous support from the "build plate" to any object that is not sitting on the build plate. Fortunately "slicer" programs can automate the placement of those supports. The supports are snapped off when the print is done.

In practice the build plate is above the resin vat and lifted as layers are added

 

the models can be rotated to manage where the supports are placed.

 

A problem with a sphere or cube (for resin printing) is that they are solid enclosed shapes; uncurable resin will be trapped inside if no holes are added for it to drain out. I've read that the ideal resin surface should be 5mm or less.

 

[Fuchur]

3 hours ago, Roger said:

Is there any kind of chemical treatment that can eliminate or reduce the lines?   You probably can't really see it unless you are right up on it, though. 

Yes it can be done. Depends on the material which once work.
Some are pretty toxic so, but it depends.

But you can easily go smaller than 0.1mm (100 microns) with a resin printer... If you go with 10-50 microns (depends on the printer if you can) you will likely do no longer see the rings with bare eyes.
Still they will be there especially with round shapes you print in the "wrong" direction / rotation. (sometimes you can not do it differently)

These are some of mine with my resin printer where you can see it on the sphere stuff too:
https://www.patchwork3d.de/blog-5-en/schmuck-aus-dem-dlp-drucker-elegoo-mars-1029

But the problem with resin printers is: 
You need more time and it is more trouble for less strong parts. If you want to do small figures, resin is great, if you need strong parts to be useable in real world scenario you want a FDM machine.

Best regards
*Fuchur*

[Tom]

Thanks to everyone for the feedback!

If you just stick one object onto another (see attached), will it be printed that way? Or do the splines of one object need to actually be connected to the splines of another?

[robcat2075]

10 hours ago, Tom said:

Thanks to everyone for the feedback!

If you just stick one object onto another (see attached), will it be printed that way? Or do the splines of one object need to actually be connected to the splines of another?

 

When i started designing medals 10 years ago, and Ken Citron was doing all the printing, he had to take the shapes into a polygon editor and do a boolean merge to create one continuous surface.

 

Today, in the "Chitubox" software I am using now, I can export an A:M model of intersecting shapes and the slicer intelligently regards them as merged. I presume that is true of most other software today.

[robcat2075]

See more 3D printing in my medal thread...

https://forums.hash.com/topic/52666-prehistoric-medal-wip/#findComment-435442