sprockets The Snowman is coming! Realistic head model by Dan Skelton Vintage character and mo-cap animation by Joe Williamsen Character animation exercise by Steve Shelton an Animated Puppet Parody by Mark R. Largent Sprite Explosion Effect with PRJ included from johnL3D New Radiosity render of 2004 animation with PRJ. Will Sutton's TAR knocks some heads!
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Hash, Inc. - Animation:Master

need help


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hmm... i´ve no experience with photo-realistic renderings, the things i do are more cartoony... but what i miss in your pictures is field depth, i think that would do a lot...

the second one looks a bit too bright for me and too even lightned, maybe you should reduce your fill-light a bit. the third one looks pretty realistic to me, with the reflections on the flooring etc, what i miss here is again field-depth...

 

but nice work, keep on going...

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i suppose the thing thats bothering me is the lighting. I'm still experimenting with IBL. all three of the pictures use IBL, but they just don't come out right. I've played around with them, and i still can't quite get them right. i want them to look as if they were photographs.

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I think your rooms and environments are too evenly lit. Try creating a better sense of real space by having some areas be darker. It can often be a good idea to have the background darker than the foreground, though that's not set in stone.

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A critical aspect of achieving a realistic render is uniformity of scale. The less the human mind has to sort out when looking at a scene in regards to deviations from the "percieved norm", the closer you will get to achieving a very realistic render.

 

I can't tell if your models are supposed to be life size, or on some order of toy scale. For that matter, it's difficult to tell if your models are supposed to represent "real" cannons and ships, or toy items. This confusion alone detracts from the scene. What ever the case may be, your decal scales are all over the charts. Some of the decals look like they are pretty sharp, some look like they are less crisp due to a larger scale. Weather toys or not, the scale of the decals on the main models should all be uniform in regards to the scale of the models themselves. If the models are toy size, then the scale of the ground and wall decals should reflect that. The smaller the scale of the main models, the smaller the sale of their decals in relation to the scale of the background decals. If the main models are supposed to be life size, then the overall scale of all the decals should pretty much blend.

 

Modeling, decaling, composition, and lighting - all need a considerable amount of attention in order to achieve a pleasing balance. Skimp on any or all and your final masterpiece will suffer. Now if I could just follow my own advice ;-)

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