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Hash, Inc. - Animation:Master

chazcron

*A:M User*
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Posts posted by chazcron

  1. I, too have a widescreen monitor, though it's a rare 24" direct view. Also have a 20" monitor for all my menus/tabs/dialogs/whatever. I found that the 24"x24" was the only way to go. I too use it proprotionately. I like to make my active area inset from the top, right and left by at least an inch to keep from hitting the edge or accidently hitting the shortcuts on top, which I don't use. My trick is to use the center of a CD on an blank doc in PS. I keep changing the height and retracing the center circle until it is perfectly circular. I end up only using half the Pad. Geez, as many pros there are who use two monitors, you'd think they'd make a "widescreen" one.

     

    Unlike Moon, I prefer that the wave of my hand, pivoting from my elbow always hits the same mark, and don't change the aspect between programs. I never look at the pad, so defining a visual bound would only encourage lurkers to use my computer when I'm not there. (they do anyway, why make it easier. I should just lock the dang thing. I wish it had a key like my beloved old Mac Quadra 950)

  2. See this thread with regard to preview render. [url="http://www.hash.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=2184"]http://www.hash.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=2184[/url] They are working on the preview render. It works in OSX 10.5 alpha 9, so I assume they'll have it working again in 10.5p.

  3. It's the real atomic thing...

     

    Will Sutton of Zandoria Studios pointed me to http://3darttopart.com and that's where I got mine, $95. Lots of sanding and priming. The finished is at:

     

    http://www.bradbarnett.net/upload/side.jpg

    http://www.bradbarnett.net/upload/top.jpg

     

    Check out these views too

     

    http://www.bradbarnett.net/upload/GT40.jpg

    http://www.bradbarnett.net/upload/FrontLow2.jpg

    http://www.bradbarnett.net/upload/XCU40.jpg

     

     

     

    The new Stang will be unveiled on January 4th at the Detroit Auto Show (www.naias.com) Driveable in the spring or fall.

     

    I'll not go back to Jaguar, Panther is it for me. I'll just hope Hash gets it right soon.

    front.jpg

  4. The reality is I make it up as I go along. As the keyboard shortcuts get memorized, the focus get on the splines. I get better as I model more regularly, as in one or two hours each night after the kids are down, and my wife is "happy"

     

    Every panel on this car has been worked at least twice and there are a few places I just couldn't improve to get kinks out. I wish AM had the ability add a cross-section rib without manually adding splines. Even though the spline adding has improved, the bias handles still go wonky when adding a spline. Here's a tip. Don't end more than one hook on the same line. I got away with it below the door, but generally, they want to snap to each other, and when they do, unconnecting them puts them connected somewhere else. When adding a hook, make SURE you've moved it close to the line you intend on ALL THREE VIEWS. The bias handle will flip unexpectedly if it is far away in the other views, and it usually is if you add one to the end of a line. If you try to adjust it, BAM! goodbye AM. Sometimes, the handles "disappear" when you drag them. They moved, the view just needs refreshing (space key) HOWEVER, DO NOT HIT THAT SPACE BAR YET. Save as soon as you get bias handle funkyness. Hit that space bar and it's goodbye, charlie. This is MAC advice.

     

    When hooks don't stop the creasing, go the distance and effort and make it go all the way through to another crease or the underside. Use the Properties panel to make precise adjustments to bias handles. Angle of bend and length of handles can be accomplished by clicking and dragging left or right on the numbers to the right of the box.

     

    I can't give a panel render/discussion because AM 10.5n in OSX Panther 10.3.1 Classic mode does not preview render on any of my computers.

     

    Here's the prototype after some painting;

     

    ProtoNew6.JPG

     

    EDIT: Holding something in your hands you've spent months modeling on the computer is way cool. The blue color is photoshopped over the primer, thus a little dull. The finished product will be gorgeously glossy.

  5. Those BMWs reminded me I haven't updated my '05 Mustang. I sure hope Nez uploads the BMW 3. I just got a convertible one and was going to do it next. any interest in the 'Stang?

     

    05Desert.jpg

     

    It was tweaked in Photoshop, of course.(pony not modeled) Many, many iterations can be seen at the link above. I am awaiting my 1:18th scale model from www.3darttopart.com this week. (thanks, Will) I'll take some digital snaps when it arrives. (10" long, $95 + $10 shipping)

  6. Actually:

    3) Turn ON multipass and leave it to the default of 9 passes or even set it to 16 passes. This will give you equivalent results as oversampling.

     

    Not equivalent if motion blur is used.

  7. I was worried at first about fan noise while transferring large amounts of data thru the firewire port in the front. Fans were at full force. Curiously, not when doing the same thing with the rear firewire. Otherwise, quiet as a whisper. Freakishly. Low fan noise on processor intense calcs.

     

    Classic booting in 15 seconds just smokes. I can't even get up and stretch those rare times I full on crash and reboot. It's just so fast. Word is Jaguar will halve boot time for most apps.

  8. My cheat was to "unwrap" the wheel as a pose. This involves making a lathed tire and then splitting it somewhere, manually (painstakinly) flattening it and adding a decal. (Oh, how I wish AM had snap to guide and shift-drag locking movement to horizontal or vertical axis.)

  9. Well, I need to reboot to get specific on what error I get in 10.5 in dxf. The useable dxf had flat spots everywhere I used 5 point patches. I assume this is normal. Is it? Need I add a spline to make them 3 point?

     

    I am able to get 3DS out of 10.5 :) and import it back in, but the result looked completely dimpled and unuseable. Is this just because of the inbreed contamination? I don't have Max to test the quality of the 3DS.

     

    Will, any info on this 3ds mesh mess? Anyone with Max want to test out a file for me?

  10. Thanks, Walasek,

     

    It works, but it gives an error and does not write to disk. Backpedaling to 8.5 is the best solution.

     

    Steve, I tried exporting in alpha 11, it worked, but it was excruciatingly slow, especially compared to dxf.

     

    However, I couldn't check the quality or problems because AM froze when I IMPORTED it back in. I haven't tried export or import in 10.5L yet. I'll try and repost in a bit.

     

    My primary goal is to get a useable file to 3dArt to Part for a rapid prototype like the Balrog from Zandoria.

  11. Support@hash.com said they no longer support that format(!) Only the .3ds that I've NEVER successfully managed to use without error. I can export to dxf in 8.5 but where's the fun in that? How 'bout if you're unlucky enough to only have the newest version.

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