Fuchur Posted June 21, 2015 Share Posted June 21, 2015 Hi, I have just a few minutes ago completed a new construction I created in A:M, brought over to Makerware and printed it out. It worked very well . It is a door traffic light. This is how it looks in A:M and in Makerbot / Makerware: And here you can read more about how it turned out and what it does with more images: http://www.patchwork3d.de/blog-5-en/complex-3d-print-door-traffic-light-677 See you*Fuchur* Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hash Fellow robcat2075 Posted June 21, 2015 Hash Fellow Share Posted June 21, 2015 Very cool! Can you tell me more about the curvy interior squiggles in picture #4... Are they there to support an empty space? Do you define those or are they created by some software? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fuchur Posted June 21, 2015 Author Share Posted June 21, 2015 Hi Robert, when using FDM-3d-Printer this is called an infill. You can define how much infill you want (it is a percentage value... in this case I think it is 10 or 5%... not sure right now). Yes it is a kind of support-structure IN the object. Makerware creates those by its own in closed shapes / areas. This is called "Cat-Infill" (just because the shape is a cat ). Makerware gives you several of them. Most comonly it is a hexagonal shape (like bees do in their hives). There is although a shark-infill and one more (can't remember at the moment and I am currently printing... like that I can not have a look). You can even create own shapes, but the structure itself will be created by the slicer / the software when it proccesses the shape. You do not have to worry much about that... You just tell the software, how much infill you want and that's it. Why I used that shape? I just wanted to test it out . Really no reason other than "hey, there is a button... lets try that one..." . The good thing about it: With those infills the stability is very high but you need MUCH less material to create your objects. (they are lighter and of course it just costs less). Other 3d printing systems (like Stereolithography) do not use those infills, as far as I know. It is quite similar to bird bones or aircraft wings... they are very light but can take a good punch, since the support that is their is really enough. It would not improve the stability very much if you filled the other areas too. (yes, a fully filled object is less breakable, but it is really not worth the extra weight and it highly depends on the force direction and stuff like that. For this object I used a very low infill, since it just does not have to withstand anything other than gravity) but would increase the weight significantly. See you *Fuchur* Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hash Fellow robcat2075 Posted June 21, 2015 Hash Fellow Share Posted June 21, 2015 OK, I see the cat now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pixelplucker Posted June 22, 2015 Share Posted June 22, 2015 Nice parts. Yes on my SLA them models have to be manually hollowed out and you have to allow for drainage so the in cured remind doesn't cause a blowout on a wall. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fuchur Posted June 27, 2015 Author Share Posted June 27, 2015 that is interesting. a drainage because it is air tight. that is something to think about too when buying a printer. in general a fdm printed part is not even water tight. (close too but not totally). like that if you want to print a mug you need to work on it afterwards (for instance melt the surface slightly with acetone before putting water in it) see you *fuchur* Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pixelplucker Posted June 27, 2015 Share Posted June 27, 2015 You also need to hollow out and add drain holes to polyjet models or you end up with raw resin trapped inside. With SLA it is more critical because each layer is exposed then squished to compact it while the resin is in its semi cured state. Full cure comes from post processing and post curing in uv light. I use the sun because it's easier. When layers are compressed, thin walls may get blown out causing some cured resin floating in the resin tank which can cause a catastrophic print failure as more and more of the print fails like a domino effect. Big benefit of SLA printers is their accuracy and print quality especially with tiny details. I do love my printer but it can drive you crazy if a print fails, takes a lot to get it right and it is a pricey learning curve. Here is a sample casting from a part I printed. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hash Fellow robcat2075 Posted June 28, 2015 Hash Fellow Share Posted June 28, 2015 Here is a sample casting from a part I printed. Do you do the casting or is there a place that does that? What metal is that cast in? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pixelplucker Posted June 28, 2015 Share Posted June 28, 2015 I do th castings here, have an old Contenti 12" spin casting machine, 25 ton vulcanizer and a couple of metal melters, one gas one that isn't hooked up and a small electric that runs really nice. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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